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大消息:云顶香港收购水晶邮轮

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March 03, 2015

Crystal Cruises To Be Acquired By Genting Hong Kong

CRYSTAL CRUISES TO BE ACQUIRED BY GENTING HONG KONG

Leading Luxury Cruise Line to Grow Under New Ownership with an Innovative New Build
That Will Exceed All Current & On-Order Luxury Offerings in the Global Cruise Industry

Today, Nippon Yusen Kabushiki Kaisha (NYK), Crystal Cruises’ parent company since its inception in 1988, announced it has entered into an agreement with Genting Hong Kong (GHK), under which Crystal Cruises will be acquired by GHK. The acquisition is expected to close in the second quarter of 2015.

With the support of GHK’s financial strength and expertise in ship design, Crystal Cruises’ fleet size will expand with a new ship, elevating the standard of luxury cruising and luxury cruise ships. Crystal’s fleet currently features Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity.

“After 25 successful years with NYK, we are excited to have Genting Hong Kong as the new owner of Crystal Cruises,” said Edie Rodriguez, President and COO of Crystal Cruises. “The proposed expansion of our fleet will present our loyal Crystal Society members and new luxury cruise guests with more itinerary options, accommodation choices and exceptional vacation experiences, as we continue to position Crystal as the innovative leader in global luxury cruising. Additionally, Crystal’s veteran leadership, management and crew will continue to focus on our award-winning guest service and our strong partnership with the travel agent community - which now has a greater opportunity to grow their business with a larger menu of Crystal product offerings.”

Established in 1993, GHK is part of the Genting Group, a global hospitality and leisure company with business in over 20 countries, including the United States in New York, Florida and Nevada. GHK wholly owns Star Cruises, Asia’s leading cruise line, and is a major shareholder of Norwegian Cruise Line. It is a public company primarily listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange and secondarily on the Singapore Stock Exchange.

“Crystal Cruises offers the epitome of luxury cruising and the service standard which all other cruise lines aspire to,” said Tan Sri Lim Kok Thay, Chairman, CEO and Acting President of GHK. “The current management team and crew will continue to lead Crystal Cruises. Genting will provide financial resources and proven expertise in innovative ship design to build a new ship that will set the highest standard in luxury cruise ships. This new ship, together with Crystal’s legendary six-star service, will reinforce Crystal Cruises’ reputation as the world’s leading luxury cruise line for decades to come.”

Under the terms of the agreement, GHK will acquire Crystal Cruises for US$550 million in cash which is subject to certain adjustment items to be ascertained after the closing. Crystal Cruises’ two ships have approximately 1,992 lower berths and the consideration has been determined on a cash-free and debt-free basis, translating into an enterprise value to lower berth ratio of approximately US$276,000.

Crystal’s passion for taking care of guests in an inviting environment of extraordinary space, quality and choices has earned the company more “World’s Best” awards than any other cruise line, resort, or hotel in history. Crystal Cruises has won “World’s Best Cruise Ship” in Condé Nast Traveler’s Reader Choice Awards for 21 years; voted “World’s Best Large Ship Cruise Line” by Travel + Leisure readers for 19-consecutive years; the “Best Luxury Cruise Line” by Virtuoso, Specialists in the Art of Travel; and both Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity were rated as two of the “Top 5 mid-size ships” by the 2015 Berlitz Cruising & Cruise Ships.

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About GHK and the Genting Group
Genting Hong Kong Limited is primarily listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange, secondary listed on the Singapore Stock Exchange and is part of the Genting Group (www.genting.com), a global company founded in 1965 operating destination resorts in Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, South Korea, the United Kingdom and the Americas. The Genting Group has substantial investment in the cruise industry through GHK and its wholly owned Star Cruises and now Crystal Cruises brands, and is a major shareholder of Norwegian Cruise Line. Additionally, the Genting Group has interests in agriculture, real estate, oil exploration and bio-medical industries. Genting has over 40 years of experience in the hospitality and leisure industry and collectively employs approximately 60,000 people. Genting properties offer an unparalleled resort experience to over 50 million visitors a year.

About Nippon Yusen Kabushiki Kaisha
Nippon Yusen Kabushiki Kaisha (NYK) is one of the largest and most successful shipping companies in the world. Headquartered in Tokyo, the firm operates nearly 900 ships and has offices around the globe.

 

Frequently Asked Questions/March 3, 2015 
1. Who is the new owner/where are they located?  Do they own other cruise lines?   Today, Nippon Yusen Kabushiki Kaisha (NYK), announced it has entered into an agreement with Genting Hong Kong (GHK) on the sale of Crystal Cruises, Inc. (CCI) with an anticipated close date in the second quarter of 2015. 
Established in 1993, GHK is part of the Genting Group, a global hospitality and leisure company with business in over 20 countries, including the United States in New York, Florida and Nevada. GHK wholly owns Star Cruises, Asia’s leading cruise line, and is a major shareholder of Norwegian Cruise Line. It is a public company primarily listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange and secondarily on the Singapore Stock Exchange. 
2. Will there be a new leadership team at Crystal? GHK recognizes Crystal’s reputation as the world’s best luxury cruise line and has pledged to NYK that Crystal’s executive leadership and its employees - including its sales force and onboard crew – and Los Angeles corporate headquarters will remain in place.  
3. Will there be a name change to Crystal Cruises? Crystal Cruises will remain as the name. GHK values the Crystal Cruises brand and only seeks to strengthen it.   4. Will Crystal get a new ship?   Yes, with its financial strength and expertise in ship design, GHK will expand Crystal Cruises fleet size with an innovative ship design and set the highest standard in luxury cruise ships that together with Crystal’s legendary six-star service will reinforce Crystal Cruises’ reputation as the world’s leading luxury cruise line for decades to come. This new ship is expected to be delivered in 2018. 
Genting’s investment in expanding our fleet will present our loyal Crystal Society members and new luxury cruise guests with more itinerary options, accommodation choices and exceptional vacation experiences. 
Additionally, the new ship build will provide our travel agent partners with greater opportunity to grow their business with a larger menu of Crystal product offerings. 
5. When will Crystal get a new ship?  After the acquisition is finalized, Crystal, in partnership with GHK, will begin work on designing a new ship that will exceed all offerings in the luxury cruise industry. This new ship will be delivered in 2018. We will provide additional updates as they become available.      
 
11755 Wilshire Boulevard, Suite 900 Los Angeles, California 90025 Tel 310.785.9300    www.crystalcruises.com    
6. Will Crystal keep their two ships?   Yes, both Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity will remain in the Crystal fleet, and we will continue to invest in redesigns, as well as continuing to exceed safety and security features on both vessels. 
7. Will they keep the officers, staff and crew on the ships?   Yes, shipboard personnel will remain. In fact, the purchase by GHK, with the addition of a new ship, will provide our employees even more career opportunities to expand and grow professionally within the company.  
8. Will the Crystal Society loyalty program benefits change?   The Crystal Society program will remain. We will continue to improve upon the program over time.  
9. Will the Crystal Cruises product change?   Crystal will continue to improve as it has for the last 25 years, enhancing upon our four pillars: Service, Space, Quality and Choices to guide our future offerings and maintain our standing as the World’s Best Cruise Line well into the future.  GHK is committed to ensuring loyal customers continue to have an exceptional Crystal experience. 
10. Will there be cuts in the product?   No, in fact, Genting will provide financial resources and proven expertise in innovative ship design to build a new ship and set the highest standard in luxury cruise ships that together with Crystal’s legendary six-star service will reinforce Crystal Cruises’ reputation as the world’s leading luxury cruise line for decades to come. 
11. Will Crystal Cruises Los Angeles headquarters and current staffing remain?  Yes, our Los Angeles headquarters, staffing - including sales and onboard crew - will remain in place. There are no plans to change the structure of the Crystal shipboard staff, in fact, there will be more potential for career growth and expansion for personnel on board and at the corporate level as we add to our fleet.  
12. When will you have a new ship?   Building a ship that sets the standard in luxury for the entire industry does not happen overnight. We will begin work soon after the acquisition is finalized. The new ship will be delivered in 2018. Further announcements on the new ship build will be made as they are available.   
13. Will the ships’ itineraries that are currently available change?   The planned itineraries, as announced and published through 2017, will not change as a result of the ownership transition.   
14. When will the sale be concluded? The acquisition is expected to close in the second quarter of 2015. Updates will be provided

 

 

北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况)

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北美之旅      标签: 旅游

 

5月底我到了纽约,主要目的其实还是要看American Ballet Theatre在大都会歌剧院每年的春季演出,但也其实兼而访友探亲,于是也到了蒙特里尔和多伦多。我一年远行达九个月,还是欧洲最好玩,所以今次北美行只是住了十四天。我不喜欢到美国旅行,但纽约这城市始终好玩,多伦多则老友最多,而蒙特里尔是我一度移民去过的旧居地:尽管当年 ‘艰难大’ 冇啖好食,我很快就放弃 ‘唱国歌’ (久居入藉)的机会转往伦敦。Montreal是我的历史,是我喜欢一再重温的。再说,上次到北美竟是大约两年前的事了(论旅游兴趣,我宁到欧洲十次都不想到美国一次) 。

 

北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况) - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客
New York

 

先从我的故居Montreal说起,今次经陆路从美国入境,第二次碰到加拿大可憎的陆地关员(上次进温哥华也有类似的经验,那次同车的有些洋人也说,通常态度恶劣的是 ‘另一边’ ),可以武断一点说,印象中美加陆路关员大都是可憎的衣冠禽兽的一类,和飞机场的官员不同。对旅行者来说,几小时的车程,走陆路还是坐飞机是个二难式。北美航空安捡可憎,我避之则吉,可是这次在陆路却碰上肯定是种族歧视的关员,特别无故找我麻烦,难道怕我到加拿大退休?我说来旅行,他竟喝问Why,你怎么回答?要做加拿大人,30年前就做了。要说的是我认为加拿大华人越多,反会令种族歧视加剧。我的亲戚都在加拿大,他们一直劝我移民,但我真的不愿住在这样的国家!我想投诉这关员但找不到邮址,所以写文章骂他。



北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况) - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客

 Montreal



Montreal距离我住的年代 (竟是70年代),当然有变化,但基本却不变,这样长的时间建设也有限,只是有些地区(如唐人街) 非常萧条,当年 ‘满地可’是比多伦多更大的城市!但现在多伦多热闹得多也大得多,大量华人移民有很大的北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况) - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客贡献,尽管Montreal的交向乐团仍然远胜Toronto的乐团。那里的音乐厅刚建成了三层楼高的Organ!加拿大人不富,但肯投资于文化。这里坐地铁都得3.50元,太贵了。加拿大的消费似乎高于纽约,于是我不禁自问 ‘幸亏我没有移民’ 。

 

北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况) - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客
Toronto

 

不过,旅游最大的消费是酒店。我住了四星的Novotel Montreal和Eaton Chelsea Toronto,一百元出头也住得舒服。我在多伦多也在近湖边的Ritz Carlton叹了两天,我颇喜欢换住不同的地区,就近逛,不用坐车。不过,虽然己两年多没有来,这两个地方仍然太熟,没什好看的。吃的方面,过去蒙市唐人街百年不变的中菜,也因生意太差没吃到了(尽管餐牌上还有像 ‘咸虾鸡炒饭’这样的 ‘四邑’ 项目)。我发现反而St Catherine街开了很多似乎地道的中餐厅,以后唐人街就不用去了。在多伦多吃了三晚士嘉堡的中菜,都是虽尚可但乏善足陈的,反而King街(近Spardina) 的一间Rodney’s Oyster Restaurant的生蚝很好,选择多,新鲜,而取价合理,以后到多伦多,我肯定会回头,此店我能大力推荐。

 

在多伦多我熟人多,我的直系亲戚都以此为家,还有因为邵颂雄兄的介绍,认识了当地的音乐朋友,于是有一天饭后在邵府乐聚。哈哈,我佩服他能以手机的控制,在大电视上通过YouTube看Glenn Gould!可惜我抗拒科技学不了。这样的爱乐聚会很难得,我在香港和北京都北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况) - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客做不到。而且是粤语对白的!

 

北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况) - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客
New York Chinatown

这次主要是去纽约,住了七天,我虽然几乎 ‘逢美必反’ ,也玩得过瘾,而且像本刊同文黄牧兄(哈哈) 在马林斯基一样,今次我一连四天在林肯中心 ‘上班’ ,看芭蕾,不亦乐乎。我访 ‘大苹果’也许己不下20次了,住的日子可能有几个月,年轻时还差点去联合国当了翻译,可是也许这次,才算真能学会坐它复杂的地铁:虽是世界最肮脏的地铁,但快捷,车厢有空调,车站警员多,所以也应当不危险。在纽约我住了七天,四间酒店,哈哈,我行李轻便,仍然采分区住就近体验的方法,学孟母三迁。清晨抵达,急于睡觉征服时差两天后看芭蕾,选择在JFK附近睡一觉再说,却不幸选错了Queens的Howard Johnson,完全不在机场,在一个可说黑人世界的贫区。但也好,我乘机看到纽约原来是破烂贫穷的。这酒店被TripAdvisor评为Queens第一店,不明白,当即写了相反的意见 (我是TripAdvisor的Top Contributor,逢住店必写几句,而我每年投店不少于150天) 。次日清醒后迁往市中心的Hotel@Times Square,因为取其就近时报广场,结果发现不太近,但酒店不差,房间不高级但舒适,送早餐,3星酒店而要200元一天,这就是纽约的价钱,不太讲究可以入住,要省也只有这限度了。逛完此区后(天天去Times Sq,尽管去过百次,看人,永远有可看的不同的人),然后我叹了两间5星的酒店,中央公园附近的Peninsula,和34街5号车路 (5th Ave的唐人街名词) 的Langham Place。半岛的早餐有中式的点心和龙虾粥,套餐加一杯鲜橙汁,签单发现是70元,华藉侍应主动用普通话招呼我,看来即使在半岛,普通话也战胜了广东话了。朗豪是新酒店,其客房 ‘可能世界最大’(虽非套房) ,服务周到。价钱就不必报了,反正是 ‘时价’ 。怎样的酒店我都住,其实也不再有好奇心了。说实话,住Time Sq也一样睡得好。不过这样的旧酒店,个别房间差异大,我在booking.com订房,用 ‘必写Feedback’为威胁,希望能拿较好的房间(多半得逞) 。

 

北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况) - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客
Langham Place Hotel Fifth Avenue New York

 在纽约最高兴的是与30多年交情的老友Peter Breiner再聚,太好了。Peter不但是万能的音乐家(他是录音最多的指挥家,CD多过卡拉扬),而且也是食家!三年前在纽约,Peter请我吃Gordon Ramsey,这次他订了在5 Ave 近Union Sq附近的一间名店Tocqueville,气氛和服务非常好,菜肴创新而好吃。饭前我逛了附近纽约最好的两间书店,一间是Barnes & Nobles的旗舰店,卖的虽然只是大路书,但竟然能腾出一个很大的阅读空间,客人可以安坐下来舒舒服服的 ‘打书钉’ ,店子也奇大。但真正Unique的是著名的Strand Book Store:这里有新书但更多旧书,包括绝版的,都打折扣。我最喜欢的是Strand这样的书店,能促成一本书物尽其用的翻阅,交流到更多读者手上。好书太多了,只是我家里仍有过百本我还腾不出时间看的书,书也太沉重,影响我继续未完旅程的方便,于是只能割爱了。不过,在纽约,逛书店是我必然的节目,百货公司可以忽略。纽约也拥有也许世界最大的照相机店,叫B&H,在10 Ave,其免费目录竟厚达479页,虽然沉重也要拿一本回来参考,付钱也买不到的!你看,美国虽然讨厌,但在纽约有的是别处没得看的。所以等大都会歌剧院有精采节目时我就会回头。哈哈,机场海关问我为何来纽约,我说来看The Met的戏,他用一副官官在上的表情表示嘉许,在我的表格上划了一些符,于是我的行李免检过关。一个贴士,不要少看我抒尊拍美国海关小官马屁这招的重要性,虽然此举below my dignity,但海关有权找麻烦,而且由他决定是否捡查行李(除美国外别处移民官不管海关) ,而纽约海关一般特别粗暴无礼。罢了,我到纽约是为了看一流的芭蕾舞,受点气罢,虽然主角都不是美国人!

 

北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况) - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客
La Bayadere at the Met


这次在纽约,我己在几个月前预定了5月23,24,和26的,美国芭蕾剧院(ABT) 在大都会歌剧院的三场票。三场演的都是La Bayadere,演出者都是我心目中的最佳巨星,有趣的是三对主角没有半个美国舞蹈员,所以我谑称ABT为R(ussian)BT…另外临时买票也看了New York City Ballet的一场白朗钦的Jewels,我 ‘高高在上’ 的坐在四楼,也得65元!

 

我想过了:如果限我只选一部我最喜欢看的芭蕾舞剧,首选可能就是这部La Bayadere,中译称为 ‘舞姬’ 的戏了!它甚至比天鹅湖和唐吉柯德还好看:因为它可能有更多的古典芭蕾技巧表演,它的故事以所谓印度为背景,虽然荒唐也比人变天鹅之类更入人信。即使它没有像曼侬那样的人性的戏剧性,它也算有点爱恨交集的剧情,也需要舞者投入剧情的演技。这次我看到的演出阵容,也许正是技巧既一流,也是演Nikiya演得最好的三位Dancing Actresses:她们是Diana Vishneva,Alina Cojocaru,和Polina Semionova,太理想的阵容了!

 

上个月刚在马林斯基看了Bayadere,演出者是Alina Somova,Kimin Kim和Isabella Boylston,不过今次ABT的演出大大不同。Marius Petipa (又是他) 编舞的原剧,是第三幕The Shades后尚有一场 ‘恶人遭天谴’ 的场景的,但这场戏实在太幼稚,没有太大的看头,演出时间也短,于是一般都省掉了。ABT演的是马卡洛娃的版本,恢复了这一场,但前面的舞步有删改,Nikiya之死就有不同的舞步(这里我喜欢刚在马林斯基看的原版):ABT版虽然多了一场但不一定更好看,这场景有点狗尾续貂之感,不过同样的票价能 ‘多坐一会’ 看明星,终究是好事。不过这些都不重要,看演什么戏也次要,主要是看舞者,the singer, not the song:能一口气看三对顶级舞者演同一部戏是根难得的机会,也许只有在大都会:ABT甚至没有全年的舞季,但所有巨星都来客串,阵容特强(去季的一场Giselle,Vishneva加Gomes是看惯了,但他们竟曾能有Semionova演鬼后Myrtha一角。Vishneva的Onegin也曾有Osipova演配角。Vishneva应是ABT的 ‘首席中的首席’ ,今年是她参加ABT的十周年,六月初有一场为庆祝特演的曼侬,可惜我事前不知没购票,因为Vishneva的谢幕是最好看的,尤其是这种场合。今季她演三部戏,每部由不同的舞星演多场,第一场永远由她演。这是ABT的某种不言而喻的protocol。

三场演出的阵容,都是顶级的:

 

北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况) - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客
Polina Semionova

 

5月23  Diana Vishneva, Marcelo Gomes, Gillian Murphy

5月24  Alina Cojocaru, Herman Cornejo, Misty Copeland

5月 26  Polina Semionova, Vladimir Shklyarov, Hee Seo

 

ABT的演出阵容,往往是配角都用巨星,如Gillian Murphy (也许是最好的美藉女舞蹈员) ,而24日演配角的Misty Copeland在23和26也演了个小角色 (我在剧院书店买了她自传的签名本,花了26元发现没有内容。

这样的钻石阵容再加上舞蹈员连续登台引发比较,‘短兵相接’ 般的竞争,和纽约舞评人和观众的水平,演出的尽力是可以想见的。所以不用说,每名舞者都会使出浑身解数来!

北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况) - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客
Vishneva in Bayadere

 

在都几乎无懈可击的演出中,我觉得还是 ‘大姐大’ 维丝妮娃最好。37岁的她在技巧上仍处于巅峰,第三幕有一段快转移动的舞步,每一转踢腿她都能轻易做近180度,而31岁的Polina也仅能做125度。正如我同意纽约时报的舞评人所说,(在技术上) 她的几乎不可能的柔若无骨的腰身(Impossibly supple spine) ,能人所不能 (这点我看她演Manon能背面翻身弯腰跳上男舞伴怀抱的绝招,更令我叹为观止)。而且V娃的入戏之深,一举一动与音乐的配合,甚至双手的动作,都完全是戏。其实Semionova和Cojocaru也是最好的演员。,我觉得Semionova很多地方都似是私淑于Vishneva的:她们风格和范畴都类似,又同样有Marakhov  (甚至配Gomes和Zelensky) 的关系,她有今天的地位肯演Myrtha一角都说明这点。我希望将来有机会向她们其中一位认证一下。七月马林斯基的一场Igor Zelensky的Gala (应是他退休的Gala,但他去了莫斯科当另一票价昂贵的明星剧院Stanislavsky & Neimirovich-Danchenko的 ‘班主’),那天Vishneva和Semionova都捧场,唉,可惜去不了。但Semionova的演出我也十分满意,特别喜欢她美妙的身型。我也极爱Cojocaru,她的足底工夫一流,可是总的来说,要是吹毛求庛,她仍稍逊一线。个子有点偏于娇小的她,也稍欠能镇住大都会这么大的剧院的场气。

 

男主角方面最出色的也是Marcelo Gomes。他是V娃的御用舞畔,两人合作天衣无缝,我看到在这部技巧要求极高的戏里,他也 ‘能飞’ !其余的男角Herman Cornejo配Alina,Vladimir Shklyarov配Polina都很不错,但还是Marcelo引来最多掌声。一向只认为他是 ‘最佳舞畔’ 而己,这次证实他不负盛誉。不过,我看过的 ‘最能飞’的Solor,竟是马林斯基的Kimen Kim 。现在希望看Vasipova (Vasaliev 加 Osipova) 的Bayadere。第二女主角也当然是Gillian Murphy最好(尽管她伤愈复出),当然Hee Seo和年轻的黑妹(样子像白人) Misty Copeland也不错。三场都看到Copeland,另两场她演小角色。她以身为第一个能在大都会演主角的黑人自豪。Kimen Kim, Hee Seo和谭圆圆只是 ‘黄人’ 。美式种族歧视有此分别,尽管他们的总统也是黑人,也改变不了这样的事实。

 

看了三场如此精采的好戏,机票都赚回来了。第一天演完,我透过V娃的经理人得以首访大都会歌剧院的后台,也是新的见识。凭报上预约名单上有名,我走到一个接待间,之前通过长长的走廊,两边都是群舞员用的Locker。接待间应在主角更衣室附近,有香槟接待,在那里我不但见到三位主角,也看到这制作的编舞人,伟大的马卡洛娃!维丝妮娃出来时己更衣了,但梅菲则赤着足。甘美斯操流利英语与众人交际。这些衣冠楚楚的宾客似乎都是互相认识的,也许是美国 ‘最重要’ 的赞助者罢。我得以观光但自问格格不入。从后台出去,有几十个观众仍在街上出口处等候着。想当年,年轻的我也曾在伦敦皇家歌剧院的后台出口,等候过Carlos Kleiber和Birgit Nilsson索签名,也曾在Royal Festival Hall出口处远观Horowitz (不能越雷池半步走近,哈哈) 。现在总算 ‘毕业’ 能进大都会和马林斯基的后台,也算活了一辈子的一个交待了!

 

北美之旅 (和美国芭蕾剧院的春演盛况) - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客
Vishneva Ovation

 

一天吃五星的奢华

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"Five Michelin stars in one day“ The culinary journey between Berlin and Wolfsburg with Tim Raue and Sven Elverfeld
Berlin/Wolfsburg, April 9th, 2015 (jch) - They are among the best 100 chefs in the world: Tim Raue, no. 78, and Sven Elverfeld, no. 28, on the ?The World’s 50 Best Restaurants“ list from San Pellegrino and Aqua Panna, also honored with two and three Michelin stars and 19 points in the Gault&Millau guide. After a long personal friendship the two chefs are now joining forces for the package ?Five stars in one day“ offering the perfect arrangement to combine a lunch at Restaurant Tim Raue in Berlin and dinner in Restaurant Aqua of Sven Elverfeld in Wolfsburg. The overnight stay at The Ritz-Carlton, Wolfsburg and the first class ticket in the high speed train connecting Berlin to Wolfsburg in only one hour are also included in the unique gourmet experience. 
The journey starts with a six course menu at restaurant Tim Raue in Berlin. The ?chef of the year“ (Gault Millau 2007 and Feinschmecker magazine 2011) presents an Asian inspired cuisine, which combines Japanese product perfection with aromas of Thailand and the culinary philosophy of China. However, the ambiance of the restaurant clearly shows its location as it is characterized by the urban atmosphere of the capital city of Berlin, The menu only offers dishes that foster energy and vitality without burdening the body. Tim Raues removes side dishes such as bread, pasta and rice as well as white sugar and gluten and only uses lactose-free dairy products. 
Continuing the journey to Wolfsburg, gourmet guests enjoy a first class ride in the high-speed train of the Deutsche Bahn and a personal shuttle service from the train station to The Ritz-Carlton, Wolfsburg. Sven Elverfeld Awaits the Gourmets at his restaurant Aqua for an nine course culinary experience in the evening. For chef Elverfeld, ?chef of the year“ (Gault Millau 2004 and Feinschmecker magazine 2007) cooking gives him the freedom to put his thoughts and memories into emotional culinary manifestations. The contemporary and artistic surrounding of the Autostadt, Wolfsburg often inspires his avant-garde cuisine that derives from the classic base. With no more than only a handful of products on the plate, he combines aroma, texture and taste to a harmonic combination, where every dish has its own story to tell.
Guests enjoy the menus with aperitif and wine pairing in both restaurants, a fast connecting first class train ride, the shuttle from the train station Wolfsburg to the hotel, overnight stay in The Ritz-Carlton, Wolfsburg with entrance to the Autostadt theme park and the cook book of Tim Raue ?My favourite things“ at the price of 1.155 Euro in a single room and 2.025 Euro in a double room. For the ones with a little more time, the arrangement can also be booked for two days with a dinner menu at Restaurant Tim Raue and an overnight stay at The Ritz-Carlton, Berlin. On the second day in Wolfsburg, gourmets will enjoy the same arrangement details with the menu in the evening and the overnight stay at The Ritz-Carlton Hotel. Accordingly, these arrangements* are available for 1.365 Euro in a single room and 2.255 Euro in a double room with corresponding wines, water, coffee, Tim Raues cookbook ?My favourite things“, entrance to the Autostadt in Wolfsburg and the transfer from the train station to the hotel.
Reservations for the package can be made through Restaurant Aqua under Tel: +49 5361-606056, e-mail: info@restaurant-aqua.com 
Package is subject to availability and cannot be combined with any other offer. Advance reservations are required; rates do not apply to groups.

Please refer to another article on my blog regarding Sven Elverfeld

关於Sven Elverfeld请阅另文

Occupy 50Best....interesting announcement

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The World’s 50 best restaurants ? : Stop intoxicating us!

To the attention of the public and private sponsors of ‘The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.’

We, the culinary connoisseurs of all countries and creeds: cooks, critics or simply lovers of Good Food, urge you to stop giving your sponsorship and support to this opaque, obsequious ranking, where nationalism trumps quality, sexism trumps diversity and the spotlight is on the Celebrity Chef instead of the health and satisfaction of the customer.

***

What do the Danish restaurant Noma, the Spanish El Bulli and the English The Fat Duck have in common? They have sent hundreds of diners home sick and in spite of this, they have each been crowned “Best Restaurant of the World” by the annual ranking of “The World 50 Best Restaurants”, whose 2015 edition will come out on the 1st of June in London.

This is not a coincidence. There are no established criteria behind the “50 Best” rating system, and no consistent and objective gastronomical or even sanitary requirements.

The abuse of ’50 Best’, which has been creating more and more buzz every year since 2002, is a secret to no one: the jury members, appointed by backroom politics, vote anonymously, without ever having to justify their choice of a restaurant or even to prove that they actually ate there!

The result? A ranking that shamelessly mixes partiality (“partner” countries, among them Peru and Singapore, are particularly over-represented), self-promotion (some of the ranked chefs are also members of the jury), and male chauvinism (only one out of the 50 was a woman in 2014).

While pledging to shake the staid conventions of haute cuisine, “The World’s 50 Best” are in fact imposing their own: the deluge of marketing, the celebrity chef circuit, and the emphasis on “innovative” ingredients – all at the risk and peril of guinea-customers.

Disgusted by their pay-to-play methods, numerous respected chefs decided to boycott “50 Best”, even at the expense of lost publicity. Let’s follow their example and say loud and clear: 50 Best, Your Kitchen Smells Fishy!

Sponsors, stop supporting ? The world’s 50 best restaurants ? !

Le Monde, Paris

  500 signatures, dont celles de Jo?l Robuchon et Thierry Marx

Zoé, qui avoue une certaine tendance à l’activisme – ? Des pétitions j’en ai bien lancé vingt-cinq, mais en général ?a ne marche pas ? –, fut la première surprise de l’écho rencontré par celle-ci. Déjà 500 signatures dont celles de nombreux chefs fran?ais (Georges Blanc, Jean-André Charial, Thierry Marx, Cédric Béchade, Jo?l Robuchon, Michel Rostang, pour ne citer qu’eux) et étrangers, connus et moins connus.

image: http://s1.lemde.fr/image/2015/06/04/534x0/4647475_6_d42f_les-responsables-du-50-best-ont-exige-la_f88a6fb0e6f4535a9c1375ff67120116.png

Les responsables du 50 Best ont exigé la modification du logo du site Occupy 50 – selon eux, trop proche du leur – et cherché à faire fermer le site. Capture d'écran Web

Un tel succès ne pouvait laisser la cible indifférente. ? Vendredi 29 mai au soir [le classement sortait le 1er juin], j’ai re?u une lettre des avocats de 50 Best me demandant de changer le logo de notre site trop similaire au leur. Je sais qu’en France le droit permet de détourner un logo, mais je me suis dit : fais un effort, inutile de chercher la bagarre. ? Zoé change la typo, modifie le logo, ce qui lui prend un certain temps. Jusqu’au samedi à 15 h 30 où elle re?oit un nouveau mail des avocats. ? Si, à 16 heures, le logo n’est pas changé, nous ferons fermer votre site. ? En dépit de ses protestations, il le sera effectivement, et il faudra plaider longuement auprès de l’hébergeur OVH pour obtenir son rétablissement ? au nom de la liberté d’expression ?. Après trente minutes d’interruption.

Depuis, le harcèlement continue. ? 50 Best contacte OVH quatre ou cinq fois par jour pour renouveler la demande, et ?a nous prend un temps dingue à chaque fois d’expliquer qu’il n’y a pas de raison. Nous recevons de fausses signatures sur la pétition, et on constate des pics sur le site pour le planter. ? Sans oublier les pressions sur certains chefs. Daniel Boulud, récompensé au 50 Best 2015 (prix du Lifetime Achievement), a ainsi téléphoné pour faire retirer la mention ? ancien de chez Boulud ? à c?té du nom d’un signataire. Il en faudra plus pour arrêter Zoé et ses copines pour qui ? la meilleure fa?on de répondre, c’est de signer et de faire signer la pétition ?.


En savoir plus sur http://www.lemonde.fr/m-gastronomie/article/2015/06/04/occupy-50-contre-50-best_4647477_4497540.html#fJmJsAVGtooX0pjE.99

The World's 50 Best Restaurants: founder condemns awards

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The co-founder of the World's 50 Best Restaurant Awards says the event is now "all about the money" and the list has lost its quirkiness and individuality

El Cellar de Can Roca: Winners of the top 50 Best Restaurants Awards Photo: 50 Best Restaurants

By Andy Lynes

3:52PM BST 02 Jun 2015

1 Comment

Another year, another World's 50 Best Restaurants list. One ?100-plus a head, multi-course tasting menu restaurant run by white blokes (Noma in Copenhagen) is replaced at the top of the list by another ?100-plus a head multi-course menu restaurant that's run by white blokes (El Cellar Can Roca in Girona).

The awards are compiled from the votes of nearly 1000 international academy members but you'd get a similar result by drawing the names of Michelin-starred restaurants out of a hat at random.

? Why French chefs hate the World's 50 Best Restaurants list

As a former academy member, I used to love the World's 50 Best. It was conceived in 2002 by Chris Maillard and mostly executed by Joe Warwick, the whip-smart mavericks that were Restaurant magazine's founding editorial team.

Back then, the awards were a boozy, boisterous affair held in Hush restaurant Mayfair and presided over by Radio 1 DJ Bruno Brookes and Sir Roger Moore. Despite its slightly ramshackle nature, chefs flew in from all over the world. I vividly recall the 2003 ceremony with Thomas Keller chatting to Ferran Adria as Gordon Ramsay wandered by.


One of the extravagant courses serves t the awards (50 BEST RESTAURANTS)

In an email, Maillard told me that "the initial concept was nothing to do with juries and international voting panels. It was a quirky, individual list put together by ourselves and a small list of trusted freelancers and outside experts. It was done entirely to provoke discussion and spark debate about 'what constitutes a good restaurant?' rather than being an absolutist food-first ranking."

?The World's 50 Best Restaurants in pictures

Although the top three spots on that first list were all occupied by three Michelin-starred joints (El Bulli, Gordon Ramsay and The French Laundry), it also incorporated La Coupole, a French brasserie; the Lone Star, a posh beach restaurant in Barbados and The Supper Club, a nightclub in Amsterdam.

"We deliberately included places that wouldn't get within 500 miles of a foodie guide listing, but might have a spectacular view, a quirky speciality or just superb service. The accent was firmly on places where you'd unpretentiously enjoy yourself rather than having to tackle daunting cheffy masterpieces in near-silent rooms with stuffed-shirt service," says Maillard.


London's Guildhall: this year's venue for the awards (50 BEST RESTAURANTS)

So far, so good. The world's restaurant community took a then-rare opportunity to hang out together, readers discover places they'd never heard of before and Restaurant magazine bagged some welcome publicity. The singular nature of the list and that fact that it had obviously been put together on the back of a fag packet meant that no one took it too seriously.

? El Celler de Can Roca reclaims world's best restaurant crown

Fast forward to 2005 and Restaurant magazine had been acquired by William Reed Publishing Ltd. From them on, the awards were no longer held in restaurants and bars but in grand seated venues like the Science Museum and London's Guildhall. With banners, triumphal music and a tediously extended ceremony, the vibe was less wedding reception and more Nuremberg rally.

The press started to report the results at face value, as though there could actually be such a thing as "the world's best restaurant". Winning establishments such as Noma (2014) went from being virtually empty to booked out for months. 'It's all about the money,' says Maillard. 'The awards have now become a massive international revenue-generating machine'.


Chefs prepare food for guests (50 BEST RESTAURANTS)

Quite how seriously the list was being taken came home to me in 2008 when I interviewed New York chef Daniel Boulud by phone. "Last year we were number 32, now we're 41. I don't know what we've done wrong," he complained, the hurt and confusion in his tone unmistakeable. The answer to that was almost certainly "nothing". Restaurants don't move around the list based on merit, it's all down to how many academy members can be persuaded to walk through an establishment's doors and several PR companies (at least one based in London) are doing brisk business doing just that.

?El Celler de Can Roca reclaims world's best restaurant crown

The French 'occupy50best.com' online petition has accused the World's 50 Best of "opaque, obsequious ranking, where nationalism trumps quality, sexism trumps diversity and the spotlight is on the Celebrity Chef". Given that France has just five entries in the top 50 and none in the top 10 you could dismiss the comments as sour grapes.

But as long as academy members are not required to prove they have eaten at the establishments they are voting for and the close-knit international community of chefs can vote for each other's businesses, I'll continue to take the World's 50 Best with a pinch of salt.

 

50 Best 2015: Melbourne's Attica among top again

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From: The Australian
June 02, 2015 12:01PM

Food & Dining

Attica, in Melbourne’s Balaclava, is run by expat Kiwi chef Ben Shewry. Source: Supplied

For the second consecutive year Melbourne’s Attica has been deemed the only Australian restaurant worthy of the annual list of the World’s 50 Best.

It has been ranked at 32 for the second consecutive year. It was also named Best Restaurant in Australasia. Sydney’s Sepia (84) was anointed The One to Watch for “fastest rising” restaurant from the second tier of 51-100. Not always a great sign, Sydney’s Marque also won this one year and is now not on the list at all.

The controversial list, sponsored by S. Pellegrino, is now in its 14th year and was announced this morning in London.

While Quay (58) and Sepia (84) both in Sydney, and Brae (87, Birregurra) were last week included in the second tier of the World’s Best (51-100), the small restaurant in Melbourne’s Balaclava, run by the expat Kiwi chef Ben Shewry, remains our one international contender.

For the second time, Spain’s El Celler de Can Roca, in Girona, Spain, has been declared the world’s best restaurant by a voting system comprised of almost 1000 jurors from 27 separate international zones.

El Celler was followed by Osteria Francensana (Modena), Noma (Copenhagen), Central (Lima) and 11 Madison Park (Manhattan).

“This success is also for our family, our wives and our kids and our team,” one of the three Roca brothers, Joan, told the audience.

The Novocastrian expat Brett Graham, chef of London’s The Ledbury, was the most prominent Aussie on the list at 20, a fall of 10 places. Between this list, and the still-important Michelin system, Graham is now quite possibly the most critically successful Australian chef ever.

Bangkok-based chef and Thai guru David Thompson, from Sydney, saw the restaurant he steers, Nahm, go from 12 in 2014 to 22 this year.

The only other Australian angle to this massive international foodie backslapping affair is the ranking of Singapore’s Waku Ghin at 70 (down from 50 last year). Waku Ghin is operated by Japanese Australian chef Tetsuya Wakuda.

The Fat Duck — temporarily relocated to Melbourne from its Bray (England) home during renovations — came in at 73, a numerically long fall from the heady days of 2010 when this same awards body deemed it the third best restaurant in the world.

Jurors for the World’s 50 Best vote for four restaurants in their own zone and three elsewhere; all must have been visited within the 18 months prior to voting. The wooing of jurors for their votes by tourism authorities and individual restaurants has become a lobbying exercise worthy of a House of Cards plot. The Tourism Australia Restaurant Australia campaign, specifically the Invite the World to Dinner promotion in November 2014, which saw a substantial number of jurors flown in to Australia to be fed and watered, undoubtedly played a huge part in the debut of Sepia and Brae to the second tier list this year.

While the list has garnered huge traction in the past 10 years, and in many ways become not only a valid benchmark but also a defining force for gastronomic direction among chefs and restaurateurs everywhere, many question the word “best” in its title.

The list invariably reflects novelty and chef charisma — pulling power for jurors — as much as it does quality. Ben Shewry’s extraordinary international profile among the progressive food scene has helped keep Attica a must-visit restaurant for the all-important influential jurors visiting Australia, a very necessary factor for any kind of ranking.

蒙都皇宮酒店 Fairmont Montreux Palace Hotel

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蒙都皇宮酒店 Fairmont Montreux Palace Hotel - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客 (2015-06-23 19:03:38)
标签:
旅游
豪华酒店


Fairmont Montreux Palace Hotel

 

 

瑞士既是酒店行業的溫床,也是世上最富裕的國家,那麼 '瑞士最著名酒店' 之譽,應是行內最高的聲譽了!這個聲譽也許應落在1906年開業的Montreux Palace,蒙都皇宮酒店上。儘管Montreux這地方只是一個小城市,但111年的輝煌歷史是任何新酒店所沒法取代的。於是這次我又入住了鮮有的另一間 '住後有回憶' 的酒店。

蒙都皇宮酒店 Fairmont Montreux Palace Hotel - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客

 

酒店最早的原建築是1837落成的 Hotel de Cygne,天鵝酒店,後來一再擴建,今天座落在日內瓦湖畔的酒店建築群,是由四個非常宏偉的建築單元構成的。這雄偉的Art Noveau或Neo Baroque建築群是Montreux的地標,不用說的是在古典的外牆後面是新型舒適的客房。2011年的大裝修,使歷史名店也成了21世紀的現代行宮。這樣大的建築物裡其實只有236間客房。但酒店大得走在裡面你會迷途!

 

蒙都皇宮酒店 Fairmont Montreux Palace Hotel - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客

 我也為之震撼了!酒店的四個建築,主樓建在湖畔大道的靠裡的一邊,但一街之隔是建在湖濱的 Petit Palais,小皇宮,通過地底隧道連接,建築設計非常獨特。酒店有臨湖背山之勝,主樓的後門建在半山,從這裡走到火車站只是幾分鐘,坐火車到日內瓦機場只要一小時。所以,我到這地區辦事遊玩,寧選住於這個比日內瓦有更多旅遊趣味的小城市。從這裡出發到Interlaken的MOB觀光火車,是瑞士著名的觀景線。蒙都雖小但吃喝玩樂俱全,因為它是個旅遊Resort。酒店窗外就是日內瓦湖,是一個真正的天鵝湖,湖對面的白頂雪山是法國。

 

我坐火車來,從後門進酒店,立刻被高高的樓底,古典的裝潢,寬敞的空間,和巨大的水晶燈吸引了!客房層的走廊寬闊得像一些新酒店的客房,據說是因為那時的貴婦穿的是傘形的大裙子,我茅塞頓開了。我的客房是一間有湖景的小套房,有一個小露台,非常大的浴室,內裡設備和供應齊全 (這是Fairmont的特色) 。這是一間新近設計裝潢的客房,現代化的設備,卻可喜的是仍然是古典風格。我住得非常舒適。

 

蒙都皇宮酒店 Fairmont Montreux Palace Hotel - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客

酒店是受保護的地標建築物,大裝修也受諸多局限,客房的裝潢可以發揮設計師的想象力,可是建築結構和公共地方,不但間隔不可改,裝潢細節也得保留,於是才像真正的皇宮。

 

早餐間的豪華,有湖景的點綴,於是我的火腿蛋也為之增值了。瑞士式的優良服務發揮盡致。加上整間酒店宮廷式的豪華,使我想到這是誰住了都會有回憶的地方,可惜不能 '住過世'!

蒙都皇宮酒店 Fairmont Montreux Palace Hotel - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客

 

走過一條漂亮的地底隧道,我到了正正在湖畔的 '小皇宮',風景太美了,因為日內瓦湖的湖水就在窗下,渡船穿梭窗前,有的到日內瓦和Lausanne,有的到法國的Evian,或者到意大利。蒙都是瑞士之行的一流據點。小皇宮現在是個尖端的宴會廳。而蒙都皇宮酒店還有大Ballroom和很多會議廳,適宜大機構開董事會。看過這間超級宴會廳的豪華擺設後我回到主樓,發現那晚主樓也有盛會,似乎是瑞士甜品廚師的一個招待會,衣冠楚楚的貴客與廚師們雲集一堂。這間大酒店有很多豪華的公共設施,相信區內的大接待會都由這間唯一的五星酒店包辦了。

 

蒙都皇宮酒店 Fairmont Montreux Palace Hotel - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客

 我住了兩天,白天重溫MOB火車沿線的美景,和到Martigny轉乘Montblanc Express山間小火車直到法國,都是大半天的旅程。傍晚在湖畔漫步看天鵝,鳥語花香,非常休暇,這就是瑞士旅行的道地節目了。第二天傍晚忽來暴雨,我在房裡觀看湖上雨景,也是一樂也。遊Montreux如此愜意,主要是因為我住了Palace!

米蘭四季酒店 Four Seasons Milano

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米蘭四季酒店 Four Seasons Milano - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客 (2015-05-05 05:50:11)

這次路過米蘭,我非常高興試住了著名的Four Seasons Milano:一間鼎鼎大名的世界頂尖級酒店。以前一再經過高級時裝店的名街,Montenapoleone街,慚愧,我在 '未超齡前' 甚至學女士們特來買衫,現在超齡不扮靚了,錢的最佳用途就是花用了,那麼動輒賣歐元幾千的一件衫,實在不如用來享受四季了!買衫是給別人看的啊(為悅己者容),住豪華酒店(偶住,不是常住) 才是自己的享受,住了像米蘭的四季,還買來經驗!

 

米蘭四季酒店

 

 這間酒店1993年才開業,那時只是歐洲第二間四季,20年後的今天酒店可說已具傳奇性的地位。和很多真正頂級的酒店一樣,這酒店的外面特別低調。它隱藏在和拿破倫山垂直相交的另一名店街Via Gesu裡(從卡地亞店轉進去就是,這裡 '認路不如認店') ,三層的連排建築物,是受保護的古建築,招牌特別小,我走過也差不多錯過了,幸虧認得四季的Logo。門口開得小小的,進去也沒有場面偉大的大堂,可是我要說,住了兩晚而且花了時間尋幽探秘,到離店時我對這間只有118間客房的酒店的佈局仍然有點迷惘!

 

米蘭四季酒店

 原來,酒店其實是由三座建築物改建而成的,於是也就難怪它有曲徑通幽的效果了。最妙的是,酒店的設計,可說裡面像幾間酒店!假設有超級豪客或國王總統之類光臨,他住的可以不單是一間總統套房,甚至包下整整一組客房群,做到最高的隱私與保安。很多使用歷史性建築物改建的酒店,像維也納的Sacher和巴黎的柏悅,都有點這樣的迷宮效應,但米蘭四季卻能妙用這佈局。我住的一間Mini-suite就設在一個最安靜的角落,經過一樓走一條走廊,才是我們獨用的電梯間。最有趣的是我們那邊廂的房間,有自己的一個小小的花園天井(中庭小院子),我的房間的另一邊就是Via Gesu。如果把我們一翼的電梯間關閉起來,那我們就像 '酒店裡的另一間酒店',妙極。因為佈局的特別,酒店另有別的院子,和中央的一個意大利花園。酒店的118間客房中大約近半數是套房,只有118間房,可算是boutique Hotel啊,可是酒店佔用很大的面積,門面的寬度大概有20個店面,所以難怪客房都特大了。

 

米蘭四季酒店

住米蘭四季,應當先做點功課,從原建築物的歷史開始考究。1987年四季把歷史性的18世紀建築艾達宮(Paazzo d'Adda) 改建時,才發現這裡有更長久的歷史:它曾是15世紀的一間修道院,還有遺蹟可尋。為期達六年的改建工作,建築師小心翼翼的保存了不少歷史遺蹟,其結果是在簇新的重建後,儘量保存了15及18世紀原

的一些建築特色。酒店裡的一些油畫都是古畫。新建的部份雖然現代化,但可喜的是走典雅而不走新潮,正是我最喜歡的現代古典風格。不用說的是客房面積寬敞,房間設備全面提供了高科技的方便,我住得太舒服了。

 

在大堂的餐廳吃早餐,餐廳的一邊就是大花園。四月底陽光普照,已經可以吃戶外早餐了。酒店的泳池設在 '負一層'的廣大900平米的水療中心裡,也是另一構思特別的設計。這使我覺得米蘭四季雖然開在市中心,卻像一間Resort Hotel:因為它的佈局,也因為它的意大利式花園和院子。雖然在市中心,但酒店內特別寧靜,傍如世外桃源。

 

米蘭四季酒店
住米蘭四季,不但名牌購物最方便,米蘭著名的大教堂和史卡拉歌劇院(La Scala) 都在很近的步行距離,太方便了。聽說這裡的禮賓部 Concierge特別有辦法,能給客人找到難求的La Scala的戲票,可惜我入住之日沒戲演,否則這服務我用得著。

 

這次入住Four Seasons Milano不但又是一次難忘享受,也使我在渴望 '儘量試盡世界名酒店'的大計裡更進一步:米蘭四季酒店的名氣太大,幾乎不可不試啊!


高端而热闹:超赞地中海邮轮的 '船中船'

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高端而热闹:超赞地中海邮轮的 船中船 - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客

 

游艇俱乐部是 '船中船'

 

2015年的我这次春之旅为期六周,从伦敦到莫斯科,其间自然要坐邮轮!我实际上 '住在欧洲',坐船是消磨时间的最好方法:不但最不劳累,也最省事省钱 (尤其在欧洲这样高消费的地区) 。奔波十天後,4月12日我在意大利的热那亚(Genoa)登上MSC Splendida辉煌号,我颇有回家的感觉。是的,两年前我坐过这船,但家的感觉主要既是来自今后七天不用搬迁,也因为我对邮轮(不论什么船) 生活的熟悉,我知道从登船起我就能不用奔波的安顿一个星期,享受如家的方便了(可惜七晚八天的航程是标准行程,所以有的是连坐两水三水都不下船的客人) 。只要上了船,全艘这样大近14万吨的船都是我的家,吃喝玩乐俱全!

 

2015年05月16日

我在2013年已坐过同一艘船,同等级舱位,和几乎同一行程,不过对我来说这情况一点都不重要,因为船的本身才是我的目的地,尤其我坐的是只有地中海邮轮的四艘旗舰级新船才设有的 '贵宾区',MSC Yacht Club,游艇俱乐部。这是无可比拟的 '船中船' 贵宾服务:我以前试过得到超级的满意,于是要再试。

 

理论上,这个概念值得借用网上语言,一句话,'超赞'!实际再度体验的结论是超赞一百次!对我来说,新一代主流巨轮的多元玩意,和五星级小船的高级饮食与服务,是鱼与熊掌的困难选择,舍此便失彼。但MSC Yacht Club的概念,正是要兼容大船的热闹好玩,和小船的体贴服务于一堂。这是 '船中有船' 的服务,提供了好像恢复邮轮黄金时代的Titanic岁月的头等服务,让肯付出较高票价的人客既享真正体贴的头等服务,也兼享巨轮的玩乐设备。这概念其实像Cunard船上的Grill Class,但Yacht Club做得更彻底。这艘客量3000余的船,只有71个这种贵宾舱,而这些舱房及设备,完全设置在船头划出的特区,要用钥匙才能进去。所以,当 '外面的世界' 热闹喧腾时,贵宾区十分宁静舒适,完全像5星船,不同的是客人可以随时到 '俗世'去看热闹。这像住在高级别墅的人,也有时喜欢到闹市去逛逛。所以你永远不会闷。这是多好的概念?

 

 

2015年05月16日

我在热那亚登船,按例我总会早到一晚,我的酒店Holiday Inn接近码头,于是出发那天的早上十点钟我先到码头去视察形势。我知道几乎不论什么船,包括五星级的小船,登轮时间大概是两点罢?到了码头有接待员来打招呼,她说马上就可登船了。我说我订的是Yacht Club舱,她说那现在就可以上船了,于是喜出望外跑回酒店退房。拿行李到码头立即享受到贵宾待遇。行李员一看到我的Yacht Club舱号行李牌马上肃然起敬,第一时间带我到特别的接待间。那里是一间舒适的客厅,有饮品点心招待,也早有Yacht Club的管家在候着,以后一直在她的陪同下先打点行李,再由她引领上船到贵宾区设在船头15层的接待客厅,一口气办完一切手续。在那里管家的主管简单的问我喜欢大约什么时间吃晚饭,和要订阅什么报纸。哇,报纸的选择恐怕有20种,是原本不是简印本。这服务是独家的,是的,银海水晶也有这服务,不过每天收费5美元罢?报纸对我很重要,这又得到我由衷的 '超赞'了。才进入客房我的行李就专人送到了。这是全面无微不至的私人接待服务。我喜欢坐船,但对登船和下船的等待和麻烦简直到了害怕的程度(所以才有先行视察之举),但坐MSC Yacht Club,登船服务世界第一,尽管这船是一艘超大船。我也注意到普通客人也能一早迅速登船:不禁想起上两次登船之苦。上个月坐另一艘意大利船,虽不在烦忙时间的下午三时,码头没什么人也要让客人按序号牌等了近一小时。幸亏MSC不是 '意大利式的登船'。三年前是那另一间公司快,为什么现在会有这相反的天渊之别?所以,船公司的成功,主要是应能不断改进的,因为客人的眼睛是雪亮的。于是要再赞MSC!

 

贵宾区的客房,全有真正的管家(Butler)服务:之所以说 '真正' 是因为有些船的管家只是 '随便管管'。这儿每个舱房都有像是 '你家的' 管家,他只管有限的房间,于是才能给客人打点一切,服务的细心甚至超越五星船。管家帮客人打点行李,办餐厅订座和报名岸上游,吃第一顿晚餐时我的管家坚持要带我到餐厅:在这样大的达13万8千吨的船,第一次真不易找到餐厅。俱乐部接待处在船头15层,专用餐厅L'Olivio则在船尾15层。但在船头的15楼,另设有一间几乎全日开放的餐厅酒廊,实际上从早餐到晚上两点钟的宵夜,不论什么时间都有免费饮食供应。这个酒廊叫做Top Sail Lounge,面积达297平米,有140个座位,只限贵宾区客满也只是71个客舱的客人专享。我可以在这里吃个别服务的英式High Tea下午茶,或饭前喝一杯鸡尾酒,饭后来一杯干邑消化,也可以吃自助午餐……要说的是贵宾区的餐食和其它餐厅不同,讲究得多,专用餐厅的餐食都是即点即制的,不是大餐厅的把半成品加热 (人太多,没有现制的可能) ,服务完全是五星船一样的规格。这次我是重温贵宾区,发现不但没有偷工减料,而且餐饮水准进步惊人,达5星船的水平。一周的作料包括龙虾鹅肝黑松菌,最值得一赞的是,烹饪功夫非常讲究,每晚厨师都出来和客人聊,像一间米其林星级餐厅。看餐具的高档,和菜肴上桌的摆布 (见图),酒水全包,桌水全用瓶装 (这是银海水晶海梦也做不到的) ,又要超赞!

 

2015年05月16日

由于贵宾区用上很大的面积,和用很多员工接待有限的客人,所以永远不会有排队的需要。我坐岸上旅游巴士,管家不但给我订好巴士票,还坚持要和我一起下船带我到巴士。服务简直 ‘好得过份’ 。这些管家都是受过专业训练的。有一天贵宾酒廊的钢琴师缺席,一名乌克兰藉的管家坐下来弹肖邦,好得令我震惊。管家有不同的国藉,其中很多马达加斯加入,服务特佳。当然也有很多意大利人。我想到正餐厅的侍应可说全是意大利人,不是 '任何船'上的菲律滨人或东欧人。不是有国藉的偏见,高级餐饮服务,还是法德意人专业到家,到底这是他们的文化。可是在别的船,意大利人都当经理或领班去了。于是,专用餐厅和酒廊的服务也可以用超卓来形容。

 

2015年05月16日

我之所以重温这船(Prezioza号爆满),是为了想再体验‘船中船’ ,看看服务是否能维持一样的高水平 (监於船费太廉人人偷工减料),我的结论是竟然百尺竿头更进一步。谁都知道,大船的好处是船大,活动地方多,节目多元化,不好的只是人挤,服务和饮食质量也只能 ‘将货就价’(可以奇劣) 。我得到结论了。

 

我也注意到,船上的消费,可说订价是目前邮轮消费中最合理的,不论是岸上游或餐饮。比如,船上的精美付费糕点竟有在一欧元以下的。这使我想到,有些船公司大减价拉客,但船上什么都收费,包括吃晚饭也必须 '买水' (不供桌水,你有能干吃的本领吗?),而且什么收费都用偏高宰客之法回收太低的票价。一瓶水没多少钱,可是出发点令人遗憾绝难苟同。

 

MSC独特的Yacht Club服务,因为一切全包,包括专用餐厅和酒廊的酒水,加上大得多的客舱,所以它收的价钱并不贵。贵宾区兼有五星船的服务,和同时享受了外面大船的热闹。非贵宾区里整整三层的六间餐厅和十多个酒吧你也可以去凑热闹,但我虽然也喜欢晚上出去  ‘人看人’ ,到底还是专用的会所设备的宁静高级,使我的吃喝不假外求 (尤其餐饮水准的大进步)。我可以确认坐MSC选住贵宾区是绝佳的主意。和别的船比较,也许Cunard的船实际上也有等级之分,Grill Class客就享受不同的餐厅,但却只有像MSC这船 ‘游艇俱乐部’ 的专用区,及其绝对提升到一流的服务,才觉得自已得到VIP式的服务。贵宾区的票价当然比普通露台房贵,但和五星船比较还是便宜的。


Yacht Club的最多也不过百余客人,享有专用的游泳池和桑拿,游泳池旁有酒吧,天气好的话还有自助午餐,平日总有酒水和小食的全日供应。于是客人更觉得自己住别墅。

 

范围不小的贵宾区只有71间客房,房间很大,很舒适,有浴缸,和有可以步入的衣帽间 (Walk-in Wardrobe) 。这样的设备通常只见于五星船。今天的晚餐是Gala Dinner,Yacht Club餐厅的主菜是龙虾 (而普通餐厅吃的是大虾,哈哈) 。

 

我坐遍多数船,也要说MSC的Yacht Club是邮轮中的最高享受之一,尤其我重视饮食和服务的环节。MSC的主要语文是英语不是意大利语,客人也常常不是以意大利人为主 (秋冬季德国人多于意大利人) ,管理也是绝对上国际轨道的,不是意式 '无为而治' 的,这也是好事。银海也是意大利船啊,也幸亏不是意式管理。喜欢坐好玩的大船而怕服务不周的 '高端客',地中海邮轮的贵宾区是应试的。我有幸坐5星船远多于4星船,也要说做MSC的贵宾像坐星船。据我的观察,即使不坐Yacht Club (到底只有 Divina, Preziosa, Splendida, 和 Fantasia有这等级),MSC也是不错的 (我也坐过Magnifica),它是我心目中大船中的三好之一,其余两间我喜欢Princess和Norwegian,当然还有自成一格的Cunard (Grill Class,甚贵) 。现在我特别希望地中海邮轮公司有更多船增设贵宾区,但显然改装不易,因为这四艘船的Yacht Club部份都是在建船时特别设计,在船头划出一部份地方建的。

 

两次所见,地中海邮轮很受国内客的欢迎,不过很少人坐贵宾区。我建议你试试:我个人完全满意。因为我也想到,要是把仅容百多客的区域划为普通舱,也许能容400客?所以我认为游艇俱乐部的性价比也许更高。辉煌号走完这航次,现在转调北欧航线去了。

 

一周热闹的旅程

一周航程中七天里有六天上岸,而且都是主流海港,是的,这是非常标准的旅程,我确是去得太多,但对大多数人来说,其实这可能才是最好的航线。之所以 '标准'正是因为它最受欢迎。

 

第一天能一早登船安顿下来,已是大赞。我喜欢从热那亚出发,因为码头方便,在市中心,坐公交都能去到,远比次日登船的Civitavecchia (所谓罗马) 方便得多了 (MSC和大多数船公司现在都可自选始发港) 。热那亚其实是一个很繁华的中大城市,有很多历史性的建筑物。这样的始发港最理想了,先来住两三天都不会闷。我喜欢热那亚依山面海的地势,也喜欢它的餐厅。第一天登船已三餐全包了,救生演习不会要你穿上救生衣站在甲板上听六种语言说同样的废话,我就这样非常舒适地开始了我的假期。Genoa有机场但航班不多,但米兰和尼斯都很近。

 

次日到了 '老城市' Civitavecchia,船客大都到罗马去了,这里也是另一最大的上客港。坐火车到罗马要一小时,在港口大门一定还有很多人拉客,以不同的方式进 '永恒之城'。但惭愧,因为去得太多,我竟然第四次坐船来而不去罗马。其实老城市也有一游的价值。

 

第三天到西西里的巴拉姆 Palermo,也是到得 '过' 多的邮轮大港,我说 '过多'是因为这里不同罗马的外港,没有大看头,船来船往主要是因为 '每日一港' 得顺路,这里也没有热那亚的旅游价值,尽管它也有一个像罗马的四喷泉广场,但我已不必要地来得太多了。但如果你第一次来,能访西西里也是一种经验。这样大的船,能选的港口有限,如果是海梦,可选的冷门好港口可多了。这也是大船和小船的一大分别。我坐游艇俱乐部得享海梦式的服务但不能享受那些港口,可是海梦全无娱乐。可喜的是码头就在市中心,走几分钟就是商店。在意大利很容易找到你看得上眼的商品,适合中式的购物狂热!


第四天到的是马尔它 Malta的首都Valetta,一个非常好玩也不太热门的地方。原本应到突尼西亚,可是因为那边刚发生恐怖袭击,改航马尔它。这地方我也来过多次了,邮轮就泊在市中心,非常方便。因为有整天时间,所以我早上参加了船上的一个团,走车看花的看马尔它岛和瓦拉它附近比较冷门的地方,结果也很满意,尤其MSC的岸上游收费特别合理。中午回船午餐,在我们的特别餐厅,竟吃到Langoustine,这是我吃过的最好的船上午餐!由于美国人和英国人不重视午餐,所以五星船的午餐也从简,有时甚至是美国口味,但意大利人最重要的一餐是午餐不是晚餐,所以我不放过 L'Olivio餐厅的午餐。这样精打细算,船费就划算了。下午出去有足够的时间看Valetta。这是一个建在山坡上的城市,有很多中世纪建筑,仍山环海,有些街道的倾斜度像接近45度。这是一个最美丽的海港。从码头到建在山上的古城,有直电梯直达,很方便。

 

 跟着航海一天,第六天到巴赛罗那。航海口吃Gala Dinner,主菜是鹅肝和新鲜的龙虾。饭后的大表演动员三十多人,是大制作。这间剧院相信有过千座位,视野一流。演出后船长率各部门员工百人谢幕,很感人。我想到五星船虽有龙虾,但那有这样的大表演?航海一天一点都不闷,我倒希望明天继续航海,不用到看厌而治安最差的巴赛。但似乎有的是必须上岸的客人,也有的是尚未到过巴赛的客人。

 


其实巴塞罗那也是登轮的大港,那里登轮也方便,市内巴士从Ramblas大道直达码头。但如果来得太多,那么我认为参团游Montserrat是一流的节目。

 

 第七天到的是马赛,码头进城远,也因来得太多了,于是我参加船上到Aix-en-Provance的自由行,那只是一小时的车程。这是明智的选择,因为这个普罗旺斯的小镇确是风光如画,那天还有市集,非常热闹。这样规模的小城市正好两小时看完。当然,如果你没有到过马赛,这也是好地方,只是半天时间看不完。女士们进了老佛爷百货店可能一小时都出不来。也幸亏马赛的市中心都在老海港的一带。


下船后我使用船上的安排坐大巴到米兰机场,管家把我送到车上放好行李才握别。我肯定我会再坐游艇俱乐部,航线不重要,有这样的享受,船就是我的目的地!

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣

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地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣 - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客 

2015年5月1日,我在西班牙的马勒加(Malaga) 登上海梦1号,作地中海的七日游。今年我坐船热,第五个月我已是坐第四艘船:顺次先后坐过Costa Diadema, QM2, MSC Splendida,其中QM2的行程我坐了20天,好像要补回2014年因为到处看芭蕾舞而 '失去的坐船时间' 似的。船的本身是我的目的地,这四艘船都能给我不同的或好或不好的经验,但坐海梦, 'It's yachting not cruising' (是游艇不是邮轮),我难免有最高的预期,到底还算最具权威性的Berlitz Guide,百利兹邮轮指南的2015刊,给海梦的评价还在银海水晶之上!

 

但还有另一个原因,尽管 '船就是目的地',可是我走的这航线的海港太吸引人了,这可不是一般穿梭地中海的 '正规邮轮' 所去得了的,很多海港对我来说也是 '处女航' (虽然近年我也许每年坐船穿梭地中海超过一个月) 。这样说罢,坐船的海港不真正是我的目的地:作为我的目的地,那我起码总得住个三几天,才能有点体验罢?可是 '走船看花' 是最好的Orientation,认路,看准了再来,那么这航线对我来说是最理想的了 ,而这样的航线正是只有坐小船才能享的 '专利'!

 

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣

 海梦的最大优势,这也是它虽是旧船,仍然得到(包括我给的)最高评价的原因,完全在它的软件,即是服务规格之上,这点,它大概超越任何别的船,足以弥补客舱不如更新的五星船的缺点而有余,使它的拥趸纷纷回头 -  很多人说 '非此船不坐',那么严重。可这水船就有12个日本人,是新客。我也听说香港曾经有人包船作 '富豪团' (船小容易包船,为何一些会所如香港赛马会不打这样的主意?)。我很高兴我不是船上唯一的东方人。

 

国人坐船贪船大,但大的因素也许是缺点多于优点。选坐海梦,除了要有钱之外,首先你还要有 '坐游艇的心态',接受完全不同的旅游模式,可是香港和国内的代理不热心推广,也许客量少,对他们不是大生意,也许代理对海梦的特色自己也不什了解,也许不容易给客人推荐如此不一样的商品?我认为海梦应有更多的中国客人,应说比较sophisticated的中国人。

 

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣
和任何船包括高级船如银海,平民化如歌诗达皇家加勒比不同,无疑任何船都有不同的操作规格,但海梦给你的,是有点 '你作主' 的那种感受,这点登船日就很不同。那天在规定的下午两点钟,一名船上要员 (Club Director)亲自来码头接待,我们没有预先拴上行李牌,他问了名字后,按名单给你写上行李条子交给员工,然后你就可以自由上船。在船上,船长大人和总经理亲自亲切迎宾。他们都做过功课,对我(和每个客)约三年前曾坐过海梦等等,都一清二楚,就是这样的细节的无微不致,使你立时感到自己像VIP而宾至如归,的确这是小事,别的船客量大就很难做到,因为海梦即使全满也只有大约100个客,受98个船员的服侍!它像一座仆从如云的航海别墅,不是一座公寓屋村。

 

6时开船,甲板上有Sangria (西班牙特色红酒调的冷饮品,因为在西班牙开船) ,和点心派对,有人早已躺在此船独有的顶层大沙发床上,看着海享受假期的开始了。第一天的晚餐,就看出此船餐食最高度的讲究,我吃了5道菜,意大利面妙用黑菌油入味,主菜我选吃的牛排确是上料,份量奇大,最后以Grand Marnier Souffle作结,餐酒全包,那晚给的Peter Lehmann的Shiraz对船上免费酒来说是很不错的了。然后次晨是我熟悉的海梦甲板早餐!到底这是我坐海梦的第22天,我选择了船边的小 '雅座' 独食,也许清晨曾有小雨,侍应给我在座垫上铺上大毛巾(其实我说可以另选座位而这座位也不湿,是侍应坚持的) 。早餐头盘冷肉生果等自选,正餐则现制。我不喜欢蛋类,但早餐菜单上有小牛排。就算吃一顿早餐,侍应也一再回来问候。我只随口说了一句:牛排非常好,但我更喜欢羊排,他说明天准有,这岂非成了我的 '私房菜'?我叫的绿茶是原叶茶,上茶时送上泡茶时计。午餐仍然享受城市人难得的甲板阳光的环境,菜谱选择丰富,非大多数其它5星船所能及,这是因为大多数船都以美式为主,而美国人不重视午饭。可这次我的甲板午餐可丰富了:我吃了Pappadella Pasta,Creamed Mussels,和Almond Trout (意式宽条面,奶油烙青口,煎鱄鱼)。就只是吃了这开始的早午晚三餐,我已能再确定海梦的吃,的确是海上的最高享受,尤其是服务上的无微不至。有一天吃午餐我选了左弦的座位,忽然刮大风,我已差不多吃完了,可是不只一个侍应还过来问我要不要换桌子:这样的服务真是无可比拟 (可以敢说,别的船会假装看不见)!

 

我以船为目的地,不太重视航线,可是刚才已说过,这次航线实在非常精采,每天访一个港口,顺次是西班牙的Cartagena,Ibiza,Palma de Mallorca,Mahon (Menorca) ,意大利的Alghero,法国的Bonifacio,然后在Civitavecchia (罗马外港) 下船。这些港口的确是非常好玩,但不常到的地方,完全适合上岸消磨那几小时。对我来说,更理想的是,先有这样与别不同的导航,如果发现什么地方好玩,我会再来好好的体验。Bonifacio就是这样的地方。如此精采的行程,坐大船是做不到的。

 

5月1日出发,始发港Malaga这地方我过去两年竟到过四次,但都不是 '目的地',都是坐船经过的,一个多月前才坐QM2来过,可今次我以之为目的地,先来住三晚。出发的那天,姊妹船SeaDream 2 也同时开出,走不同的航线。对上的昨天,我看到世界最大的船 Allure of the Seas,我兴幸我坐的是世界最小的船而不是最大的船:我们住别墅,他们住最大的屋村(经济适用型的)。

 

住了三天才发现,原来马勒加非常好玩,一反我多次船来船往的印象。原来在码头区和老城区的Calle Granada街,晚上夜生活热闹,吃喝如此丰富,海鲜比国内还便宜。夜生活是船来船往看不到的,除非坐海梦,因为这次航程,有三晚我们晚上十时十一时才开船,如果是大船,大多数傍晚六点就赶路去了(这些船需要深水大码头,港口选择少得多) 。在马勒加登船,也远比在 '最危险' 的巴赛罗那登船方便。距Malaga半小时车程,便是英国穷人踊来渡假的Torremolinos了,那里像泰国布吉,消费也是泰国水平。春末下午气温达28度但干爽有风,一点不热,晚上降温至18度罢,阳光永远普照,真是最理想的天气了。

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣

这次登船既方便也有意外的惊喜。登船时船长也在迎宾,还有一位海梦高干,行政酒店经理Christophe,他不是取代以前认识的比尔,它是海梦两船的主管,因为本船的酒店经理尚未履新他暂代。我非常高兴认识他,因为后话是他沿途给我不少有用的数据,也让我说了一周有点生硬的法语。另一惊喜是,客房侍应带我进房 (这艘高级船不会给你 '指路',即使吃晚餐,餐厅门口也会有美女和我绕着手引领我入席:这传统今天只见于海梦银海的船) 。我说我认识她,是三年前,她说她早就认得我了,只等我的相认,于是握手言欢。这就是海梦了,是游艇不是邮轮,才能有这样的服务。

 

海梦熟客都知道,他们常常以船员个人的名义,给客人送小礼物,那么最大的小礼物,就是第一晚收到RoomStewardess管房送的一套漂亮睡衣了。她还亲笔在卡片上签名,一切都那么Personal (请勿想入非非,哈哈)。这是多么贴心的初步印象?

 

次日中午抵Cartagena,一个很漂亮的中形城市,看船上发的海港简报,此地人口也有20万,也想不到我能逛个三小时而不闷。星期六街上行人如鲫,热闹极了,而且5月2日似乎是西班牙的节庆日,有游行还鸣了礼炮。这样的城市才是最好的邮轮港,因为你可以在没有观光压力的情况下,看到城市的精华,而且这次上岸使我在我的旅游地图上,增添了一个否则不会来的好地方。我也注意到,这样漂亮而天气完美的地方,房产非常便宜,几十万人民币就能买房。这是一个可以考虑专程来玩几天,甚至来 '经济退休' 的地方 (可是这样的地方还是太多了)。

船的顶层五、六楼,在烟窗的下面是最妙的新设计,有几张双人(Queen)大的Day Bed,你可以白天平躺下来,看着世界在转变。最妙的是,客人还可以要求开床,在这张床上过夜,看着满天星斗入寐。这玩意本来是我极想要一试的,可是五月欧洲天气仍冷也风大,所以没法取得这样的新经验:这应是最宜加勒比海之旅的玩意罢?客人也可以要求吃甲板烛光晚餐,他们会给订座者一丝不苟的摆布桌子,这是最浪漫的海上晚餐了!可是晚风阵阵,勇士也浪漫不来。

 

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣

跟着连续访问Balearic Islands的三个岛,这又是很不寻常的行程。其中Palma de Mallorca自然已是邮轮大港,我两个月前才坐另一船来过,奇怪的是大船都赶路,六点必开船赶往巴赛罗那或马赛去了,只有我们不赶路,很晚才开船。其实可以这样说,作为邮轮港,Ibiza和Menorca比大港Palma更有趣味,也比较不容易来。侧闻不少大船不来的原因,是这些地方容易自由行,客人比较不愿付钱参加岸上游!而在Ibiza和Palma我们一早到港,晚上11点才开船,所以连夜生活都看到了。这是 '游艇的无比优势'。

 

在Ibiza这样的小港口,意外地竟然看到五艘船,除了中午就赶路开走的Costa Favolosa外,还有私家公寓船The World ,Club Med 2,和英国限老人订的逍遥船Saga Pearl 2。Balearic三岛中伊比萨岛是较年轻的游客所最喜欢的,不过也许热闹的地方都在渡假区,如圣安东尼奥,那里是连串的酒吧街,但首府伊比萨的市中心并不热闹。邮轮码头较远,得用穿梭巴士,我发现游客酒店都在近码头的远处。也许尚未进入旺季,市面一点都不热闹。

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣

 可是伊比萨也有古城,建在山丘上,称为Dalt Vila (高城之意) ,攀登弯曲的小石路,沿途不少手工艺游客店。市中心的海旁大道也不是很热闹。不过我想七、八月旺季会完全不同,因为这是纯旅游区。登山逛古城非常有趣。我们很晚才开船,我早上去逛了,晚上忍不住再回去海旁逛,邮轮半夜开船是很难得的。可惜晚餐太丰富,用了很多时间慢慢吃,但坐海梦,晚餐永远是高潮啊。又是 '鱼与熊掌'的选择。

 

三岛中的马约加 (西班才文双L读音Y,所以一般错译为马略加) 绝对是最大的一个岛,人口达50多万,极多退休的外国人。首府柏尔马可说已是个热闹的大城市,海旁大道有尼斯般的大场面,市中心的古城也很可观。这是个一流的邮轮港,只是我到得太多,天气又有点热,早上逛了三小时就算了。但如果初访,这地方极有观光的趣味,一天都不够。西班牙的危险地方只是巴塞罗那马德里,小城安全人民友善。

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣

三岛中我认为最有趣的,反而是最冷门的棉诺加,旅游发展的比较落后反而是它的优点,没有太多难看的火柴盒建筑物。首府Mahon的常住人口只有大约三万人,但建在山坡上的城市有很多漂亮的建筑物,也有很多店铺,码头一带也风光如画。我发现这里的地产也要比邻岛便宜。这是我打算秋凉后来渡假一周的好去处,一定不会闷。本来想到更出名的Ibiza,来了发现Menorca更好,我想今年冬天来住一个星期。所以邮轮游是很好的初导。

 

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣

SeaDream的衣着准则是 ‘随意’,晚上他们称为Yacht Casual,没有华服之夜。可虽说是Casual,大家穿得非常讲究。尤其是吃晚餐。要Casual而Elegant,比穿正装讲究得多!船长酒会之日我穿正装结领带,发现除了船上高干外只有我这样穿,于是知错了。我想起刚坐QM2,天天晚餐都要穿西装。我没所谓,只是衣着要 '入世'。有一点要说的是,在高级船上,dress up即是穿得稍为过度的整齐,不算错,但dress down扮嬉皮名士是失礼的。在QM2,不穿西装的甚至不能进正餐厅晚餐,只能吃自助。不同的船适宜不同的客人。

 

船的五层甲板层是开放餐厅,也就是吃海景早餐和午餐的地方,再上一层顶层是个酒吧,是晚上喝杯酒消闲的地方。底下的泳池畔也有酒吧,那儿是日间主要的活动中心,它连接着主要的Club Lounge会所大厅,是客人聚集的焦点。洋人爱杯中物,酒吧永远是他们的集中点,而海梦酒水免费。我喜 '血腥玛丽',第一天叫过了,第二天侍应就不用吩咐了,而且照我的喜爱调。在大船,即使我付钱,也肯定 '不敢吩咐'。海梦的船票也像多数五星船一样,基本上自然是全包的,不但包服务费,包小帐,晚餐的餐酒免费 ,酒吧也免费。

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣
地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣

船上四层有一个装潢高级的图书室,里面有上网和打印设备。无限上网全程收费99美元。我喜欢饭前在Club Lounge喝我的一杯Bloody Mary:哈哈,这是我那一周的习惯了。不好的是,下了船就不能继续这 '好习惯'了。这不是付钱的问题,是为了享受那种游艇式的高级气氛,接受最殷勤的接待。

 

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣

第六天离开了西班牙到了意大利萨丁尼亚的Alghero,寄碇海中我们乘坐驳船上岸,船方不忘放下海梦独家的水上玩意,有游泳的浮台,还有几艘橡皮艇,和风帆快艇都在待客,免费的,但使用者得立下生死状。可是有风有浪,这次没有勇士去玩。开头三天风平浪静,可是第四天起一直有浪,夏天会风平浪静得多。

 

Alghero非常冷门,可也不是太小的城市,人口达44,000。在市中心转一圈,这里停停那里停停的,也能好好消磨三小时。始终认为这种大小的地方最宜作为邮轮港,而Alghero也是大船不会来的地方。船泊海上用驳船登岸,岸上也设冷饮和点心,回船必定递上冷毛巾。这个地方也有沿自14世纪的历史,先后由西班牙人和意大利人统治过,两座地标教堂都是沿自16世纪的老建筑。街上很多商店卖的是工艺品,著名的土产也许是珊瑚罢。市中心附近就有海浴沙滩。萨丁尼亚这个意大利的离岛省份不在普及旅游的地图上,所以我乐于能这样来Alghero,

尽管此地旅游设备不足,也许不是我要来渡假的地方。坐船来就算看过了。

 

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣

这个晚上风浪颇大,船长加速开船,原订早上九点到,结果七点多便到了Bonifacio港口的进港湾口,却不幸因为风高浪急,在海上挣扎了一小时,船长还是决定进不了港,领港船徘徊半天也只能无功而退。结果船长的英明决定,是驶往海岛另一边的Porto Vecchia,在那里再用穿梭巴士载客到Bonifacio。这些地名像意大利文,这是因为此地曾属意大利,所以兼具法意风光。我们结果在11时泊岸,大家都赶车到Bonifacio去了。幸亏 '是游艇不是邮轮',否则只能败兴开走。邦尼法治奥有天然的美景,它的进港处就是一个悬崖,船舶进港得绕过一处近90度的狭隘水道,所以在安全至上的原则下没法迎风驶进去。哈哈,也幸亏船小我们才能转航到 '老海港' 而不致到不了这个堪称全程精华的目的地。船公司非常周到,既备有穿梭巴士到邦尼法治奥,也有巴士到这里建在山上的村中心。我有幸三年前同样乘海梦一号到过邦尼法治奥(而一直想回来) ,所以我反而要先看看Porto Vecchia:真是功力不足,仍有想尽量多看的压力。事实上这个小镇也很有瞄头。一部穿梭小巴只有我一个客,跟司机说了赶时间,他特别在我需要的时间来接我 (幸亏和船上的老总温习了六天法语) ,穿梭巴变成我的专车!这样随机应变的服务,也是只有海梦 '游艇' 才能提供的。别的船绝不会另外提供到Porto Vecchia的穿梭,因为这不是目的地,理直气壮之至!所以,海梦的服务真是无微不至。这次风浪也反而带给我另访一个好地方的额外收获。Corsica (法文叫Corse) 有美丽海岛之誉,真是名符其实,就是老海港也非常漂亮。于是我决定 '必来'科西加,也许享受一周冬天的阳光。我这样想好像我是欧洲人,的确是,因为我每年有八个月在欧洲,哈哈。

 

地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣
地中海的游艇之旅:海梦的乐趣

而Bonifacio之美,简直不可芳物。它的海港有完善的旅游设施,单是沿港的一排法国餐厅和酒吧就令我垂涎,而山上的中世纪古城更是可爱,曲径通幽。我攀山而登,为本前辈尚有这样的能力而高兴。我以为爬了很高,一问之下知道只是50米,不过也是大约20层楼的高度了,可是路上风景一流。这地方似乎还未发展出很大的国际旅游市场,游客主要是法国人,我们全船也不过是60个乘客和一些船员。其实去年我已想来,只是飞机接驳不易,也许得经巴黎?这个地方值得全无保留的推荐。上次坐海梦也到过附近的Calvi,一样漂亮。也许要说的是此区似乎浪大,上次也经历了因风浪改道的事。这样的海港,坐大船永远到不了,如果Allure of the Seas送来5000人就 '破坏环境'了!

 

次日在Civitavecchia下船,我再创第五次过罗马之门而不入的纪录,直奔机场飞布拉格,转往莫斯科看Bolshoi芭蕾舞去了。唉,这次旅程短短一周,却留下不少记忆啊,尤其船上服务的出类拔萃。下船前和船员和一些乘客握别之际,我已决定尽快 '回家'。

 

世上没有十全十美的船,可是不同的船,能在不同的方面提供不同的享受。不错,海梦船的客舱虽然十分舒适却偏小也没有露台,它也没有表演节目,赌桌只有一张,甲板午餐在春天无可比拟,可是在夏天我会嫌热(正餐厅午餐休息) ,可是它的 '游艇优势' 和软件,使伯利兹邮轮年监给它的评分,竟超越硬件出色的银海水晶和世朋。它的海上玩意是独家的,它的餐饮一流,用的食料最好,而烹调往往有出其不意又好吃的创新,但最终令我可说依依不舍的,是它的服务的无以伦比!无疑像今次淡季98个员工对62个客人,是别的船没法比的,但最重要的是,从船上的客房管房,到体贴的接待与礼宾,以至真的每一个餐饮服务员,都能真心尽力让客人完全满意。像我只是轻轻一提(绝非投诉) 想吃羊排早餐,以后天天吃,而且不用吩咐就是我喜欢的Medium Rare吃,和用Mint Sauce而不是Mint Jelly,还有那次午餐都快吃完了,只因勿然括风,不只一个服务员建议我换桌子,而且我敢说他们完全不是为了小帐 (Open seating 不易拿小帐) 。是的,银海水晶还有QM2的Grill Class和MSC Yacht Club的服务也一流 (而且我在Crystal Serenity和Silver Spirit都有很多认得我的服务员),可是因为这些船都不是游艇,不可能做到同样的体贴。最终是海梦的服务令我难忘!

 

我试坐了世界第一船 QM2

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我试坐了世界第一船 QM2 - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客 

2015年1月10日是我坐邮轮30年历史上的里程碑,那天我在南安普敦登上玛利王后2号,RMS Queen Mary 2,简称‘QM2’,开始二十晚的到迪拜的旅程。坐船 ‘太多’ 的我对船的期待已不多,可是因为坐的是QM2,又是Princess Grill套间,登船前我有已好久没有的期盼。坐QM2的Grill Class可以说是我等待了11年的事 (虽然11年前我大概已坐船超过40次) ,这艘船不是 ‘另一艘邮轮’ ,技术上它是独一无二的。我想起我和这船也有点缘份:2004年1月我刚好在Fort Lauderdale,我目睹了这艘当时世界最大的船,首航从英国抵达罗德代尔堡。在罗德代尔堡,可说满眼看的都是船,可是QM2的传奇性,使当地举办了海港游,算能靠近QM2,我也参加了。当时已 ‘立志坐这船’ ,这大志终於在11年後完成,虽然来得稍晚,我也心满意足了。年来几次在海港遇QM2,同船的客人都有点肃然起敬之情。


我认为以船论船,QM2仍是 '世界第一船',而且看市场趋势的需求,也许世界上不会再有第二艘一样的船。很多人称邮轮为 ‘游’ 轮也许始於笔误,但事实上那些其它的船也确只是游轮:一大幢海上公寓 (哈哈,很多是大陆所谓的经济适用房,香港或称廉租屋),建在吃水浅的船身上,能以慢速航行,廉价提供海上娱乐设施,低价吸引客人而船上高价推销以收回成本…这也许是今天 ‘游轮’ 的定义?而QM2是唯一的远洋邮轮,有人称之为 ‘真船’ ,就算是同公司的另外两艘船,也不是这样的船。那麽,何谓 ‘真船'?

 

QM2拥有加厚的船身,特强的发动力,据Berlitz Guide说这船倒车後退的速度,也要比很多船前进的速度快,而且玛利王后2号在夏季仍然行走伦敦纽约间的定班大西洋航线,所以它仍是执行某种交通任务的远洋邮轮 (这是有闲阶级的最 ‘文明的越洋’ – Most civilized transit) ,不少人就这样以船为目的地,到岸便坐飞机回家,甚至坐原船回家。QM2的Draft (吃水深度) 是32.6英尺,超过海洋绿州号的30英尺,用非技术性的话说,15万吨

的QM2,船身在海底的深度超过22万吨的Oasis,但後者建在水面的高度却高得多。由此可见QM2有性能高得多的抗浪性能。能在风浪正常操作和它的高速度,是何谓真船的准则。因为这些看不见的因素,此船的建造成本特高,2004年下水时耗资8亿美元,但2006下水大约同吨位的Freedom of the Seas,虽然加入了通胀和更多舱房的装潢费用,也只是5亿9千万美元。撇开一般人不求什解的技术因素,再与吨位类似的Freedom of the Seas比较,那艘经济适用船有1817个客舱,客量是3634人,QM2只有1310客舱,最大客量是2620,少了一千个客

人,因此QM2 (虽然也有经济适用舱) 的个人空间大得多,船上不致到处人山人海。最近坐Costa Diadema,13.2万吨却载客达3732人。这些大家不去研究的数字,其实是决定一艘船的舒适度的因素。QM2达致了56.6的Space Ratio,胜过冒称5星的小船,如Oceania的Riviera (52.5) ,和Azamara Journey (42.7,和Freedom of the Seas 的42) ,所以船小不一定代表客人空间多的舒适。

 

从二楼大堂登船,马上的感觉是这船的空间感。这层楼和像三楼与七楼的公众活动楼层,楼底非常高,使人觉得舒适兼高级。它的中央大堂只有五层高,也特意面积不大,给我这才是高级的感觉,而船的装潢十分讲究,用擦得发亮的黄铜和红木,墙上可能是雕塑,玻璃可能是镌花的,完全不同其它大船(也许除了公主) 的刻意缤纷给人的俗艳感 (很多船的装潢都是廉价的’涂鸦派’)。走廊是一般船的走廊几倍的宽度。这样的空间感加上永不人山

人海(超大船必然的情况) ,使坐惯船的我也觉得有震撼感。我说此船是世界第一船,不单是因为它的技术规格,也因它给我Titanic时代的豪华感觉,尽管我知道有更豪华的船如Europa 2,和更大的船Oasis。也许这样说,一个旅行者(而不是不求甚解的家庭船客) ,如果一辈子只能坐一次船,那你应坐的船就是QM2了。就算我坐船那样多,如果限我只能再坐一次船,我想我会选择再一次坐QM2,坐Queen’s Grill!  这又使我想起当年一个英国老太太,最後以船为家,终老於玛利皇后(1号) 上的故事。老太太的所为使她成了我的偶像!

 

此船的布局也与大多数船(全部我坐过的船) 不同。它的大堂和客服全在二层和三层,餐厅包括非常大的吃早餐也不用求坐的自助餐,和两间高级套房客用餐的Grill Room,主要都在七层,不像其它船,自助必在顶层。这里顶层(12层) 也有餐饮,不过只是烧烤便餐,八楼是付费餐厅Todd English,二、三楼是主餐厅Britannia及

Britannia Club。我想到超大船如Norwegian Epic和Costa Diadema的餐厅,都主要在同一层的布局。QM2的布局也许没有那麽方便,开始几天你甚至可能迷途,但这样的分隔,给人宁静和更高级的感觉,甚至看图觅路也是一种乐趣。此船电榜间非常宽阔,分在船头到船尾的ABCD四区,电梯特多,而在有些大船,等电梯也是一大苦事!船的酒吧有11个之多,每间都有特色,其中Golden Lion Pub是英式酒吧,可以去吃英式酒吧午餐。购物都在三层,但在八楼有一间书店,和超大的海上图书室…可以这样说,这船的设备什麽都有(除了爬山墙之类,不适宜此船的客源) ,而图书馆和书店就特别适宜我。书店特多讲船的书,很多是专写QM2或Cunard的,Cunard到今年庆祝175周年了,它的历史其实也就是邮轮的历史。书店很多讲船的书我很有兴趣,在岸上买不到的,可惜太重。我想到我家里有不少讲船的书,都是当年在QE2的书店买的。

不愧为世界第一邮轮:我试坐了玛利王后2号
图书室

 

说到QM2的设计布局,很多妙处。由於采取了不少 ‘错层’ 的布局,所以这船有一个非常大的大舞厅Queens Room,楼高达七米多,非常堂煌。这里是举办化装舞会,下午茶及茶舞,和一些表演节目的地方,其中在这里用英式下午茶,虽然人多,但仍是不用拼桌,侍应穿大礼服戴白手套,用银器与骨瓷的高档茶道,而Grill级的客人可在Queen’s Grill Lounge用安静的下午茶。但必需看的还是Queens Room的堂煌和享用它的下午茶。

 

不愧为世界第一邮轮:我试坐了玛利王后2号
Queens Room大舞厅

 

QM2的剧院也非常特别,是两层可容1094座的设计,特色是楼上竟有一些包厢。这剧院另一特色是它特意不用尽船的宽度,因为剧院不开窗,所以剧院的两边是一条海景走廊,通达後面漂亮的星象馆。这间Planetarium也是层级式的设计,除了星空投影设备外,也是很好的电影院和演讲室。QM2的布局虽然有点令人扑朔迷离,却妙极,我就特别喜欢船上长长的有斜坡的走廊。按传统邮轮的设计,船上七楼有一条环船甲板,绕行三周就是1.1英哩或1.6公里。甲板特别宽阔,实木地板,靠椅都是实木的,非常高级。阳光普照之日,我看到甲板日照的一边全是晒太阳的人,阴凉的一边没有人。船客九成是英国人,於是我想起一首歌…Mad dog and Englishman go out in the midday sun…是的,这船的气氛完全英式,尽管服务员很少英国人,而不知何故,船上的货币是美元。

 

说起来,Cunard这间邮轮公司的老字号,大陆叫冠达邮轮,香港代理叫皇后邮轮,应是邮轮的第一历史名牌了。以往算是比较近代的名船,除了原来的Queen Elizabeth (QE1?) 在香港毁於一炬外,原Queen Mary 和QE2(我坐过三次) 都挟着辉煌的历史退伍後仍在服务,成为泊在加州Long Beach和Dubai的酒店。但同样是Princess Grill,QM2的客舱比QE2舒适多了,尤其是客房间的隔音,和船的机器超卓,开船也全无感觉!邮轮的技术发展很大,只是服务质量的一环,却因价钱的普及化而不复当年了。Cunard宣示要恢复当年他们White Star时代的服务水平,尽管这能否做得到,或者更现实的说,能做到多少成数令人置疑,但肯做就值得嘉许了。QM2肯定是比QE2好的船。

    

一如传统邮轮,Cunard的船,可说可分为Grill Class和Britannia两等级的服务。任何船都有舱房的高低之分,

但大多数服务一样,吃一样的餐,可是在QM2,两等的客吃不同的餐,Grill客有独用的Lounge,甲板,和一个

Concierge Lounge(客服厅) ,而且除了这大致的分别外,其实Grill 也有Queen’s和Princess Grill之分。两间Grill餐厅的餐牌无甚分别,但据说Queen’s Grill的客有权要求厨师做特别菜。这点,以前我坐QE2的Princess Grill也可以,而且经理会自动提出,欢迎客人吃喜欢吃的任何菜肴,他们会尝试给你做。但其实如果你 ‘敢开口’ 的话,一般5星船也会尝试。不同的是这服务以前在QE2是他们自动提出的。这样的要求我也不敢提,尤其今天的实际船费远低於White Star年代的水平。Grill餐厅除了每天改变的餐牌外,还有一个不变的点菜餐牌。其

实每天餐牌也有很多选择,主菜就可能有六款了,再加上点菜餐牌,选择很多。不知是否近期的共识,或者有人先行了别人为竞争效法,最近发现在银海和水晶船上也有另一点菜餐牌可选。在QM2的Princess Grill,午餐餐牌会附上晚餐餐牌让你考虑:有些点菜需要提早在午餐时预定。在5星船上,吃饭是非常重要的事,所以要穿戴整齐,其它小节也要认。如果你要晚餐时开一瓶好酒 (船上有2006的Lafite,2010的DRC Romanee St Vivant,大约1400美元,起码比北京国贸的酒铺便宜) ,那你应先看餐牌选择,选好了酒侍应会预先给你的拉菲开瓶透气。可喜的是Cunard仍然保留了这许多邮轮黄金时代的文化!对了,像我这样的自封食家,我发现餐牌每十天环回一次。即使如此,选择还是太多了。

 

至於Britannia,也有两间餐厅之分,住较高级的Britannia Club客房的客人,可以使用Club餐厅,是单次座席制,而普罗客则用大餐厅Britannia Restaurant。我进行了考察,发现这间大餐厅不但豪华,而且高级宁静,因为用厚地毡,座位间隔远,晚餐还有弦乐四重奏演出。不要以为这是像RCI或Costa式的震耳欲聋的千人大食

堂。我也研究过餐牌,发现Britannia和Grill的菜肴基本一样,也有龙虾吃,只是Grill会另有一或两道特别菜。不过,这里没有点菜餐牌。Princess Grill的餐是银海或水晶的级数。龙虾特多用不过没有鱼子酱。在Princess Grill,我的桌子是编定的,而且早餐午餐也用同一张桌子,这是远胜任何船的安排。随着银海的烹调似乎走向新潮融合,水晶走向标奇立异,加上只有QM2早午餐也有专桌,也许最终我喜欢的是QM2 (Grill) 的比较传统的烹调。自助餐的菜肴也不错,根据英国人的传统爱好,这里几乎天天有不错的正宗印度菜。还有,随着节省,今天大多数(几乎全部) 船都省去了Midnight Buffet这传统了,可是QM2有11时至2时的布菲。午夜自助不一定为了吃,也是一种邮轮传统啊。现在除了QM2外,似乎只有挪威和丽星还有这玩意了。顺便一提的是,其实挪威和MSC的一些新船也在分级,分别名为Haven和Yacht Club: 这分级的旧传统,也是一种新方向?

不愧为世界第一邮轮:我试坐了玛利王后2号
Britannia Restaurant

QM2最高级的客舱 Queen’s Grill主要设在九楼,少数在十楼,而其次的Princess Grill则全在十楼,顶层反而是Britannia较高级的会所露台房 (Club)。别的船往往把最高级的房放在最高层反而不合逻辑。因为遇到大浪时,高层会比较摇,而且餐厅都在七层,那麽住高层就不太方便了。不过,如果你住在船头,每天到船尾晚餐,也要走达三分一公里的路。但不要紧,这样漂亮的船,我觉得每次走过都是观光和娱乐。

 

 说到这里我想说说QM2的客人。我发现这船的客人,对衣着特别讲究。华服夜的礼服穿着比率,类似在Silversea,也许甚至尤有过之。在皇家加勒比和歌诗达上也有Formal Night,但绝大多数人视若无睹,T恤牛仔衭横行无忌。这使我想到一个我不想说的问题:同船乘客质量的问题。非常不好意思这样说,有钱人除了比穷人有钱外,也一般比穷人有修养和有礼。这使我想到,我不想坐美国的 ‘工薪蓝领船’ 的一大原因,是怕与这些低层无知的美国人为伍。我不反对低层无知,但他们往往种族歧视。在QM2多天可见,这船的客人质量甚高,斌斌有礼,在走廊遇到穿礼服的邻居,大家都会自动问好。奇怪的是这船不是Silversea,也有平民客啊。这是令我意外满意的一点。我觉得此船客人的水平不低於水晶的客。也要说,常常听说中国客的行为有问题,大陆电视也开始教育民众 ‘文明出国’ ,但我曾一再在银海与水晶的船上遇到中国人,他们的行为绝对正确,绝不是在

我们这地区坐 ‘本区最大的船’的客人。

 

船上的娱乐节目也真不错,演出场次多,船上的歌舞组合是大编制,有四个歌手和十二个舞蹈员,船上的几队乐团水准奇高,听他们一再玩Dixieland爵士乐,水准奇高。加上聘用的确有点声望的客席演出者,担任Headline Entertainer, ‘头条表演者’,节目都有不错的水准。Cunard肯花钱搞娱乐节目,是因为每场演出的上坐率都很高。QM2的娱乐节目,应是邮轮中编制较大,水准也较高的。

不愧为世界第一邮轮:我试坐了玛利王后2号
以前我曾经担心,要是不能坐 (坐不起) Grill Class,船上的饮食会不会令人满意,经过现场的考察,我发现有了 ‘头等’ 的Grill Class,反而足以提升 ‘二等’ 的Britannia的饮食水平,尤其反而是大餐厅Britannia的豪华,而Queens Room的下午茶的大场面,和自助餐的水平,都超出我对一般大船水准的预期。有趣的是,船长请客都席设Britannia餐厅 (尽管吃的可能是Queen’s Grill的菜谱) 。这是一艘非常英式的船,英女皇的肖像到处见,英式船比较规矩宁静。船上的衣着要求高於任何船:此船的衣着准则,只有Formal或Informal,後者也要求晚餐必须穿西装上衣,这对我也不是局限,因为我并不打算穿得破烂扮新潮,於是我喜欢人人穿戴,使全船都高级起来。近年Cunard的航程安排较多比较长的,这点我也喜欢。以前我坐过Cunard大约七次,但多年没坐了,我的会员卡都遗失了,可喜的是船上能找回我的会藉,而因此我享受了一些免费上网的待遇。久违後的今次QM2之旅,使我相信我又会是常客。尤其是,如果真要坐满环球全程,我想我会需要活动较多的大船,而如果对餐饮有要求,那麽选择就非QM2莫属了。

不愧为世界第一邮轮:我试坐了玛利王后2号
Princess Grill 客房

重温Cunard 在QM2的综合经验,使我确定QM2是我最喜欢的也许三艘船之一。的确,每间公司或每艘船都各有特色,但QM2的Grill Class绝对是我最喜欢的5星服务之一,而我感觉它的Britannia服务也会胜过别的四星大船。在我决定抽时间坐环球全程前,我有意坐南安普敦到纽约的航线:因为船就是我的目的地,也因为我常常从伦敦往纽约。顺便一提的是西行划算,每天赚一小时。多年前我也坐过QE2但东行,每天少玩了一小时。我决定下次使用这传统文明的旅行方式。多年前我有幸从伦敦试坐过Concorde,四小时便到纽约,时差却有八小时,非常反常,反常就不太文明了!

不愧为世界第一邮轮:我试坐了玛利王后2号
不愧为世界第一邮轮:我试坐了玛利王后2号
不愧为世界第一邮轮:我试坐了玛利王后2号



有兴趣者请阅 游记: 我在世界第一船QM2上的20天  http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_7acca0bb0102vfzf.html


  

My Latest Hotel Stays: posted on TripAdvisor

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TripAdvisor Oct-Nov 2013

Grand Hotel Europe St Petersburg

“Great Hotel”

5 of 5 stars Reviewed October 14, 2013 NEW 

Great hotel by all counts especially if you stay in the historical wing, with butler service and Bulgari toiletries and full coffee bar, you have a memorable stay. Here everyone of the staff are attentive and each speaks good English.The butler service is such that it seems that they can do anything for you. The buffet breakfast is probably the best not only of St Petersburg but possibly of the world: I count 20 sorts of tea and similar of bread. 5 or 6 food stations and there is even Beef Strogenov for breakfast and Pancake with Red Caviar cooked to order. Several kinds of marinated herring are available only here nowhere else. This is in the main restaurant with a two-storied high ceiling, completed with a pianist playing Chopin for breakfast if to make it grander than grand.The location is the most central of central St Petersburg at Nevsky Prospekt, which is more useful than proximity to Hermitage (which you only visit once and I have been to it). I come to St Petersburg for ballet every year and this is my first choice of hotels in this city of many top hotels.

Room Tip: Rooms varied in this kind of historical hotels but the historical rooms are special, facing the Phil...

See more room tips

Stayed October 2013, traveled on business5 of 5 stars  Value

5 of 5 stars  Location

5 of 5 stars  Sleep Quality

5 of 5 stars  Rooms

5 of 5 stars  Cleanliness

5 of 5 stars  Service

 Hotel Ukraine, Kiev

3 of 5 stars Reviewed October 19, 2013 NEW 

Having stayed at luxury hotels in Russia I arrive Kiev and checked into a so-called 4-star Hotel Ukraine. I chose this hotel because it is most centrally located and in particular I wanted to sample the "Soviet style" that I missed out during Soviet time, and on both counts I am not disappointed. Location was the best and it really is Soviet (meaning not very comfortable). Despite the small and dated room the service is not bad and the breakfast also, and there is fast internet (if you plug in). And the price I paid at Expedia is really cheap. But the condition of the room does not justify it to be 4 star, though even so I may return as location is important. (no hotel in Kiev uis better located).

Room Tip: Convenient location and a sampler of Soviet time "good" hotel to satisfy my curiosity.

Stayed October 2013, traveled solo

5 of 5 stars  Value

5 of 5 stars  Location

4 of 5 stars  Sleep Quality

3 of 5 stars  Rooms

4 of 5 stars  Cleanliness

3 of 5 stars  Service

3 of 5 stars Reviewed October 19, 2013 NEW 

Great Fosters Hotel, Egham, England

Arriving London from an overnight flight, there is no better way to combat jetlag than at The Great Fosters Hotel, in Egham, near Windsor and Heathrow. It is less than 15 minutes from a taxi ride from LHR T5 where my BA flight landed. This hotel is, if anything, arguably one of the most interesting hotels anywhere. Housed in a heritage building, the main wing is of 14th century vintage though there is the new stables wing.  Here you can simple unsurpassed bygone English hospitality in the most traditional way. Staff are mainly English, more so than most London hotels, and there is no better example as to what a true English breakfast is like. The teapot is heavy-weighted silver and tea cups the size of a bowl, and my ordered main course Scotch kipper comes as a full-sized whole fish. There are lounges and bars in an interior of antique furnishing and furniture. Bedroom is comfortable and the bathroom, concealed behind a door like an old cupboard, is ultra-modern. Staying here not only buys a night’s sleep but an unforgettable experience. Service is excellent, nicely old-fashioned like in bygone days. Not the least is the hotel’s garden: while the hotel is boutique it has a garden that is a virtual mini-Versailles. Jetlagging, I enjoy just staying in the hotel for my arrival day, and the remote location does not bother me. It is life for a change once in a while and as such is well-worth it……

“Great Kamchatka Crabs”

5 of 5 stars Reviewed October 19, 2013 NEW 

Great Crab from Kamchatka

On my recent stay at Grand Hotel Europe St Petersburg, I had the chance of sampling the best of Russian cuisine money can buy, though at a cost but well-worth it. I had a dinner at The Caviar Bar and Restaurant of the Grand Hotel Europe and the dinner turns out to be most memorable. The starting signature dish of a 3 caviar sampler was great. Three kinds of caviar including a generous portion of beluga were served with sour cream etc on egg shells accompanied by a shot of vodka, and this is already a stunning start. Then we had sturgeon and beef stroganoff, the latter on the recipe given to the hotel by the original inventor of this now famous dish and so it has an air of authentic exclusivity to it. BUT it is the dish of Kamchatka Crab that will live forever in my memory. This variety of crab from Russian Far East is the best of its kind and in my view better than the Hokkaido or Alaskan varieties. It was cooked in a champion sauce beautifully. A must try whether you stay at the hotel or not. I saw that the house was full of local rich and am told that it is always fully booked despite the high price. Live Russian style music accompanies your meal and good service to make the occasion an ultimate experience.

Mercure Dolphin Hotel, Southampton

Between luxury business stays in London I went to Southampton for a day for a ballet and choose this simple accommodation under the good name of Mercure.

This hotel is central and staff service attitude is very good. The room is very small but has many inclusive items such as a safe, free internet, and coffee making facilities even a snack, and perhaps this makes it a Mercure otherwise room condition is more like an Ibis. I paid USD169 at Expedia for this. Simple room and it is not cheap. A few steps away there is Star Hotel that is more than 50% cheaper. All said I may return to it for my next cruise out of Southampton.

What makes me unhappy is the Expedia booking. I had clicked the wrong month due to a previous search and as a result I made duplicated bookings with Expedia US on the 22nd of both October and November. Immediately I tried to contact Expedia and they simply do not answer my 5 emails sent over several days nor respond to a web message on their website. When you need them for help they are simply not available. All email got a computer generated reply that is irrelevant. They have not replied yet. While at Mercure I told them about this situation and they said after checking that they CAN cancel if Expedia says so. BUT no way ever to contact Expedia US Site. I made a lot of bookings on this site and I may not do it again. I had similar experience long ago with Travelocity and they were much better. The Expedia service is a robot and no human contact is possible when needed. Be careful if you book with them. I am absolutely and extremely unsatisfied.

The Ritz, London

“Incomparable Ultimate Luxury”

5 of 5 stars Reviewed October 25, 2013 NEW 

 I suppose that even as a frequent user of hotels a visit to The Ritz London is a must if to complete my hotel experience. This world famous hotel, big building with few rooms and with more staff than guests ensure great service. But it is the hotel's extraordinary opulence and décor, more than any hotels I have seen, that exceed my highest expectation of what is ultimate luxury. I am simply stunned by the splendor going on my way to my room via the Palm Court where high tea is famously served from 11am to 7pm, and the restaurant breakfast is great in a equally opulent setting with waiting staff in white-tie! The room is exquisite with turn of (last) century furnishing lovingly restored. It is not a one-time stay, but a lifetime' experience to be relished. A "must see"!

Room Tip: Rooms face all sides and I believe a suite with Piccadilly and Green Park view is the ultimate though at a price...

Stayed October 2013, traveled on business

5 of 5 stars  Value

5 of 5 stars  Location

5 of 5 stars  Sleep Quality

4 of 5 stars  Rooms

5 of 5 stars  Cleanliness

5 of 5 stars  Service

“Casual Elegance with a Difference”

5 of 5 stars Reviewed October 26, 2013 NEW

ANdAZ Liverpool Street, London

“Casual Elegance with a Difference”

This is the 4th time I stayed at ANdAZ Liverpool Street with a same good reason: it is always great to be here and there is also a good weekend discount too! Andaz is the hip brand of Hyatt and this brand operates in an entirely different manner from ordinary hotels. Receptionists, casually dressed in shirt-sleeves, are your hosts who check you in with an iPad - the only staff who wear jackets are the porters. The hall has no counter if to be different and more friendly, and at 6pm it serves wine and canapé to anyone. Rooms are ultra modern and really comfortable, with free minibar and snacks, also fast free internet, and free local calls. Service is about the best anywhere, in a homely casual manner. Two venues for breakfast, you choose between turn of the (last) century elegance or modern casual. Staff are all young and friendly, most even handsome. Everything is perfect to make a most pleasant stay. It is also interesting to see the renewed East London, with its own activities and night-life. The hotel is on the Liverpool Street Rail station which is virtually a shopping center in itself. I can fondly remember all my stays at this hotel, at first for a change, but now I can count myself as a satisfied returning guest.

Room Tip: This hotel is in the banking/business area with many office buildings and so it can be expensive on...

Stayed October 2013, traveled on business

航空旅客的权益

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在欧盟国家的机场,你随时可以看到摆放着这样的传单。这不是广告,它的内容很有叁考价值。Passenger Rights,航空旅客的权益?很多旅客根本不知道自已有法理的权益何在。例如飞机大误点,你会获得补偿吗?航空公司当然知道它的责任,但随了负责任的航空公司外,他们多半不会自动告诉你能怎样索偿。但任何索偿或抗议必须依法行事,不能像 ‘中式抗议’般霸占飞机之类来抗议(大陆发生过客人霸占飞机航空公司召警拘捕的事件,活该) 。这份传单非常有用,告诉旅客能做到什麽,甚至提供了在欧盟境内的免费投诉电话。

 

航空旅客的权益 - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客

欧洲有很多航空公司,多到数之不清。一般说,欧洲有些航空公司仍是较好的,经验中像英航,法航,德航,土其奇航,瑞航,乌克兰航,Baltic Air (廉价航空公司,但很好),德国的German Wings及柏林航,甚至俄国的Transaero和S7,和我刚坐的葡萄牙航TAP,都给我不错的印象(短程航线:如土航短程极佳,长途极差)。这许多航空公司竟都是我这两年内先後坐过的。但欧洲有很多廉价航空公司则可以令人坐了一肚气。虽然我们避之则吉,有时避不了,例如从Seville去伦敦,Ryanair可能是唯一的选择。Ryanair的刻薄声名狼藉,但有时收费奇廉 (即使加上许多附加费,10欧元的 ‘票价’埋单可以是100元) ,所以受气也是活该的,尤其你可能别无选择。我当然也坐过EasyJet和Wizzair,可以容忍(你应知道你的预期) 。反而我心目中最衰的航空空司是两间国营的刻薄型航空公司。西班牙航Iberia比较聪明,用廉航Vueling之名操作其航班,於是能实际节约(预先公布,因此合法,见下面的欧盟法规) 。但要选世界上最衰的航空公司,我会选北欧航空公司(SAS) ,他们挂正招牌,表面是大公司,可以免费check in 一件行李,有一次我的行李只是19磅,但上机行李也要过磅,结果要付75欧元,而带着这样的行李我从国泰到英航到法航,都没有问题(Check in行李是23磅,只有19磅没有航空公司会要把上舱行李过磅计钱) ,事後投诉不覆。机舱服务也是世界最衰的,舱务员大都是中年粗鲁男士,态度恶劣,叫一小杯可乐也得收1欧元,真正太cheap了。SAS己战胜了Ryanair,Iberia,AA  (我最不喜欢的几间空公司) ,高距 ‘世界最衰航空公司’的首席位置!北欧是高级地区,但SAS是北欧之耻 (SAS = Shame Airways Scandinavia) 。

航空旅客的权益 - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客

航空旅客的权益

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航空旅客的权益 - guzhenhuang - 古鎮煌的美食博客

航空旅客的权益  转载:http://blog.sina.com.cn/u/2060230843

 

在欧盟国家的机场,你随时可以看到摆放着这样的传单。这不是广告,它的内容很有叁考价值。Passenger Rights,航空旅客的权益?很多旅客根本不知道自已有法理的权益何在。例如飞机大误点,你会获得补偿吗?航空公司当然知道它的责任,但随了负责任的航空公司外,他们多半不会自动告诉你能怎样索偿。但任何索偿或抗议必须依法行事,不能像 ‘中式抗议’般霸占飞机之类来抗议(大陆发生过客人霸占飞机航空公司召警拘捕的事件,活该) 。这份传单非常有用,告诉旅客能做到什麽,甚至提供了在欧盟境内的免费投诉电话。

 


欧洲有很多航空公司,多到数之不清。一般说,欧洲有些航空公司仍是较好的,经验中像英航,法航,德航,土其奇航,瑞航,乌克兰航,Baltic Air (廉价航空公司,但很好),德国的German Wings及柏林航,甚至俄国的Transaero和S7,和我刚坐的葡萄牙航TAP,都给我不错的印象(短程航线:如土航短程极佳,长途极差)。这许多航空公司竟都是我这两年内先後坐过的。但欧洲有很多廉价航空公司则可以令人坐了一肚气。虽然我们避之则吉,有时避不了,例如从Seville去伦敦,Ryanair可能是唯一的选择。Ryanair的刻薄声名狼藉,但有时收费奇廉 (即使加上许多附加费,10欧元的 ‘票价’埋单可以是100元) ,所以受气也是活该的,尤其你可能别无选择。我当然也坐过EasyJet和Wizzair,可以容忍(你应知道你的预期) 。反而我心目中最衰的航空空司是两间国营的刻薄型航空公司。西班牙航Iberia比较聪明,用廉航Vueling之名操作其航班,於是能实际节约(预先公布,因此合法,见下面的欧盟法规) 。但要选世界上最衰的航空公司,我会选北欧航空公司(SAS) ,他们挂正招牌,表面是大公司,可以免费check in 一件行李,有一次我的行李只是19磅,但上机行李也要过磅,结果要付75欧元,而带着这样的行李我从国泰到英航到法航,都没有问题(Check in行李是23磅,只有19磅没有航空公司会要把上舱行李过磅计钱) ,事後投诉不覆。机舱服务也是世界最衰的,舱务员大都是中年粗鲁男士,态度恶劣,叫一小杯可乐也得收1欧元,真正太cheap了。SAS己战胜了Ryanair,Iberia,AA  (我最不喜欢的几间空公司) ,高距 ‘世界最衰航空公司’的首席位置!北欧是高级地区,但SAS是北欧之耻 (SAS = Shamed Airlines Scandinavia) 。


即將出新書的預告


一月北京出版新書的預告

是Gala Dinner,还是快餐?

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我從來不坐RCI的船,說實話是不敢領教。世界最大的船我的解讀只是 “更多的人擠在更小的人均空間” 。最近有老友,郵輪權威級人士,坐了Mariner of the Seas,太可怕了,尤其對我來說,船上的吃最重要。Gala Dinner竟吃齋意粉,我的老友的主菜竟是小份吃不飽的雞胸肉,這是快餐待遇。幸虧他們也有好的,就是船上的表演。我相信權威級的老友的意見。下面摘錄自老友的信:

(Dining Experience of a China Cruise on Mariner of the Seas)

I don’t recall the menu of the gala dinner but  I remembered a lady of my table ordered a pasta.  It just looked like pasta with tomato sauce and nothing else.  There's no garnishing at all.  Seriously the dishes were served far below the standard of gala dinner.  The soup was not hot and dessert was terrible in terms of taste and presentation.

Chairs in the main dining room were set in the way that there's basically no room to maneuve between chairs.   Waiters and waitresses could not even get close to the tables to serve the dishes.  I was asked by different serving staff to stand up and give them room to squeeze in for 5 times until I complained and refused to do so again.

The food quality in the buffet restaurant was very bad too.  The steam bread served in the breakfast was too hard that no one could really eat.  Ice-cream was served on hot bowls.  No sign showed the direction of queues and no staff were there to assist.  People came from any directions and made the buffet lines messy. 

Not only the food, I have spent 10min on online check-in and registered my credit card for the onboard spending.  Just 15min before I disembarked, I was asked by the front desk to go there to personally check-out as they said they didn't see my record.  They got every other booking I made during online check-in, except this one!  I had no choice but to rush to the front desk with my hand-carry...

We also booked the character breakfast online.  But when we tried to get in the dining room, we were questioned by the F&B staff for times as we did not go with a kid.  This information was never communicated to us .  It did embarrass us a lot.  In fact this “character breakfast” was  free and there were only 3 tables of guests.  I couldn't understand why they could not make a better arrangement.

I think as a whole the cruise experience was not pleasant, except the shows, which were truly stunning. 

是的,大船的表演秀应当是最好的,胜过5星船。我最近坐过Norwegian Epic和处女星,不论服务与食物都不错。MSC和Costa的 “船中船” (Yacht Club和Samsara) ,和丽星的付费日餐厅的饮食更非常好。我很奇怪皇家加勒比的食物这样差,骂声四起。到加勒比海,我的首选肯定是 Norwegian Epic,还 “不敢尝试” 海洋绿州,其实也没兴趣和没必要去试它。

 

是快餐还是Gala Dinner?

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我從來不坐RCI的船,說實話是不敢領教。世界最大的船我的解讀只是 更多的人擠在更小的人均空間 。最近有老友,郵輪權威級人士,坐了Mariner of the Seas,太可怕了,尤其對我來說,船上的吃最重要。Gala Dinner竟吃齋意粉,我的老友的主菜竟是小份吃不飽的雞胸肉,這是快餐待遇。幸虧他們也有好的,就是船上的表演。我相信權威級的老友的意見。下面摘錄自老友的信:

Dining Experience of a China Cruise on Mariner of the Seas

I don’t recall the menu of the gala dinner but  I remembered a lady of my table ordered a pasta.  It just looked like pasta with tomato sauce and nothing else.  There's no garnishing at all.  Seriously the dishes were served far below the standard of gala dinner.  The soup was not hot and dessert was terrible in terms of taste and presentation.

Chairs in the main dining room were set in the way that there's basically no room to maneuve between chairs.   Waiters and waitresses could not even get close to the tables to serve the dishes.  I was asked by different serving staff to stand up and give them room to squeeze in for 5 times until I complained and refused to do so again.

The food quality in the buffet restaurant was very bad too.  The steam bread served in the breakfast was too hard that no one could really eat.  Ice-cream was served on hot bowls.  No sign showed the direction of queues and no staff were there to assist.  People came from any directions and made the buffet lines messy. 

Not only the food, I have spent 10min on online check-in and registered my credit card for the onboard spending.  Just 15min before I disembarked, I was asked by the front desk to go there to personally check-out as they said they didn't see my record.  They got every other booking I made during online check-in, except this one!  I had no choice but to rush to the front desk with my hand-carry...

We also booked the character breakfast online.  But when we tried to get in the dining room, we were questioned by the F&B staff for times as we did not go with a kid.  This information was never communicated to us .  It did embarrass us a lot.  In fact this “character breakfast” was  free and there were only 3 tables of guests.  I couldn't understand why they could not make a better arrangement.

I think as a whole the cruise experience was not pleasant, except the shows, which were truly stunning. 

是的,大船的表演秀应当是最好的,胜过5星船。我最近坐过Norwegian Epic和处女星,不论服务与食物都不错。MSC和Costa的 “船中船” (Yacht Club和Samsara) ,和丽星的付费日餐厅的饮食更非常好。我很奇怪皇家加勒比的食物这样差,骂声四起。到加勒比海,我的首选肯定的Norwegian Epic,还 “不敢尝试” 海洋绿州,其实也没兴趣和没必要去试它。

 

 

船就是目的地

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新书序言

这本书厚达520页,精装,内有24篇游记,包括港版邮轮上的300天的19篇(港版书只有367页),图片更多及更精选,敬请关注(希望一月底推出)

 

船就是目的地:邮轮上的300  这书名听来好像有点夸张,但其实不然。到今为止我坐船的日子远超此数,说1001夜也不是天方夜谈。原因很简单,我坐邮轮己超过35年!

 

本书以游记的方式发表,和以前两本书以 ‘坐船需知’ 为主不同。通过非常详尽的游记,我希望读者能藉此分享我的经验。我的游记都用很多字数来描写船上的设备、服务,和特色。这也就是说,我想通过间接的方法,除了介绍一条航线的见闻外也介绍我坐的船的细节。我始终认为,坐邮轮所经的航线固然重要,但始终我坚持 ‘船才是目的地’ (The Ship is the Destination)之旨。坐船多年而且旅欧20年,己经很少有我没到过的海港了。而且要到某地,坐飞机去还不容易?我坐船很大的目的是享受船的设施和服务。

 

邮轮常客都各有自已喜欢的船:更正确的说法是喜欢的船公司,我也一样。我坐船是为了我的享受,我不是记者也不是为了赚稿费写游记。每一间船公司都有自已的操作模式及规格,适应不同的客人。我只坐我喜欢的船,也因为我习惯了某些船公司的服务方式。这是我不坐某些船的原因:我不是要出另一本伯利兹指南,绝无讨论所有的船之需。如果为了这需要而坐不喜欢的船,那就不是享受了。

 

的确,我本想试一试Oasis,可是最终着实不敢试。船是大可也大不过太古城,五千乘客到处排队应是受罪不是享受,尤其不同品级的船有不同品级的客。这些美国大船的客源是美国的工薪阶层,要我和这些自大无知的美国客人拼桌吃饭是苦事 (但我不反对欧洲客),尤其是更要吃美国口味的餐,所以也就作罢了。这正是我坐的船并不全面性,也不企图全面性的原因。我只讨论我喜欢的船。

 

我在美国旅行的日子也远超300天,经验使我对中下层美国人甚至英国人有偏见,可是我绝不反对工薪阶层的欧洲人,所以我一再坐Costa和MSC,极少坐RCI。但我却喜欢与银海船上的富裕美国人同舟共济,不同阶层的客人有截然不同的修养。本书也没有讲Seabourn,因为Seabourn (和Regent及其副牌Oceania)是和Silversea类似的Cruise Product,我对Silversea的满意使我不想试Seabourn,尽管后者经常大减价 (这不是好事,因为减价只会降低乘客的质素)。每一间船公司都有一间类似的业务对手。世上也没有免费午餐,所以Celebrity和Crystal并非 ‘差不多’,乘客质素就有很大的距离:我自己不是富人所以不会喜欢富人,可是高层和工薪阶层的举止还是有分别的,价钱的差别也肯定会使服务软件的质素必然有很大的差距。一间我很想一试的船公司也许是荷美,可是当初他们吃饭要拼大桌使我不愿试,而他们的对手(其实是同一集团的)公主邮轮是继丽星和挪威后首先实行有自由座席制的非五星船,当我已经习惯了公主的可靠服务及享受老会员免费上网,就不会再 ‘冒险’去试荷美了(尽管荷美也许更适合我)。希望这段话能解释了我选船的偏见。

 

我也坚持,只有最贵的船,没有最好的船。何谓最好是主观的,并不是坐水晶的享受一定胜过坐挪威,尽管票价差距大。银海和水晶的高价买的是,客舱,服务与饮食的质量,可是肯定挪威或地中海或歌诗达的船热闹好玩得多。最好看的表演都在四星大船上,五星船的客基本上不重视娱乐节目。我曾在一个月内坐完全不同的SeaDream和Norwegian Epic,我对两者都喜欢。现在我喜欢一去就坐两艘甚至三艘船。现在坐邮轮,一般消费太合理了。我希望读者拿着这本书与我同游,共同体验坐邮轮无比的乐趣。

 

Michelin Hong Kong and Macau Results

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谬评照录,聊博一灿

The MICHELIN guide Hong Kong Macau 2014

The Selection

3* 

Exceptionnal cuisine, worth a special journey

Hong Kong

Bo Innovation 

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Lung King Heen

8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo – Bombana

Sushi Shikon

 

Macau

Robuchon au D?me

The Eight

2*

Excellent cuisine, worth a detour

Hong Kong

Ah Yat Harbour View

Amber

Caprice

Celebrity Cuisine

Pierre

Ryu Gin

Shang Palace

Spoon by Alain Ducasse

Summer Palace

Sun Tung Lok

T'ang Court

Tin Lung Heen

Wagyu Takumi

 

Macau

Golden Flower

Zi Yat Heen

1* 

A very good restaurant in its category

Hong kong

Din Tai Fung (Tsim Sha Tsui)

Duddell's

Fook Lam Moon (Tsim Sha Tsui)

Fook Lam Moon (Wan Chai)

Fu Ho (Tsim Sha Tsui)

Gold by Harlan Goldstein

Golden Leaf

Golden Valley

Guo Fu Lou

Hong Zhou

Hung's Delicacies

Il Milione

Jardin de Jade

L'Altro

Lei Garden (IFC)

Lei Garden (Kowloon Bay)

Lei Garden (Mong Kok)

Lei Garden (North Point)

Lei Garden (Sha Tin)

Lei Garden (Wan Chai)

Loaf On

Man Wah

Mandarin Grill + Bar

MIC Kitchen

Ming Court

Mirror

Pang's Kitchen

Petrus

Sing Kee

Tate

The Boss 

The Principal

The Square

The Steak House Wine bar + grill

Tim Ho Wan (North Point)

Tim Ho Wan (Sham Shui Po)

Tim's Kitchen

Tosca

Wagyu Kaiseki Den

Yan Toh Heen

Yè Shanghai (Tsim Sha Tsui)

Yù L

i

Yuè (North Point)

Zhejiang Heen

 

Macau

Jade Dragon

King

The Golden Peacock

The Kitchen

The Tasting Room by Galliot

Tim's Kitchen

Wing Lei

Bib Gourmand

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Hong Kong

Ah Chun Shandong Dumpling

Ammo

Bistronomique

Bombay Dreams

Café Hunan

Café Malacca

Chan Kan Kee Chiu Chow (Sheung Wan)

Chili Club

Chuen Cheung Kui (Causeway Bay)

Chuen Cheung Kui (Mong Kok)

Congee and Noodle Shop

Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao (Kowloon Bay)

Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao (Wan Chai)

Din Tai Fung (Causeway Bay)

Dragon Inn

Fu Sing (Causeway Bay)

Fu Sing (Wan Chai)

Fung Lum

Fung Shing (Mong Kok)

Good Hope Noodle (Fa Yuen Street)

Ho To Tai

Kau Kee

King's Garden

Kwan Kee Bamboo Noodle (Cheung Sha Wan)

Lan Yuen Chee Koon

Lau Sum Kee (Fuk Wing Street)

Lin Heung Kui

Lucky Indonesia

Mask of Sichuen & Beijing

May's Sawaddee Thailand

Megan's Kitchen

New Shanghai

Nha Trang (Central)

Olé

Po Kee

Ramen Jo

Restoran Indonesia 1968

Sabah (Wan Chai)

Sang Kee

Ser Wong Fun

Shanghai Min (One Peking Road)

Shek Kee Kitchen

She Wong Yee

Shugetsu Ramen (Central))

Shugetsu Ramen (Quarry Bay)

Sister Wah (Tin Hau)

Snow Garden

Sun Kau Kee Noodle Shop

Sun Sin (Yau Ma Tai)

Sun Yuen Hing Kee

Tai Wing Wah

Tai Woo (Causeway Bay)

Takeya

Tasty (Happy Valley)

Tasty (IFC)

Tasty (Kowloon Bay)

Thai Chiu

The Monogamous Chinese

Tim Ho Wan (Tai Kwok Tsui)

Tsim Chai Kee (Wellington Street)

Tulsi (North Point)

Tulsi (Quarry Bay)

22 Ships

Wang Fu

Wing Lai Yuen

Wonton Master ?

Yat Lok

Yau Yuen Siu Tsui

Yue Kee

 

Macau

Chan Seng Kei

Cheong Kei

Hou Kong Chi Kei

IFT Educational Restaurant

Lou Kei (Fai Chi Kei)

Luk Kei Noodle

Noodle & Congee Corner

Square Eight

Tou Tou Koi

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